FFFFF OOOOO RRRR MM MM U U L AAA 11 F O O R R M M M U U L A A 1 1 FFFF O O RRRRR M M U U L AAAAA 1 F O O R R M M U U L A A 1 F 00000 R R M M UUUUU LLLLL A A 11111 FORMULA1: DRIVING GUIDE by Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM Initial Version Completed: October 31, 2002 FINAL VERSION Completed: December 1, 2002 ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== ACCOLADE: The Formula1: Driving Guide was deemed Best FAQ of the Day on the FAQ Contributors Message Board on GameFAQs for November 8, 2002 :-) JOIN THE FEATHERGUIDES E-MAIL LIST: To be the first to know when my new and updated guides are released, join the FeatherGuides E-mail List. Go to http://www.coollist.com/group.cgi?l=featherguides for information about the list and to subscribe for free. ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== CONTENTS Spacing and Length Permissions Introduction Assumptions and Conventions Quick Race Mode Arcade Mode and/vs. Grand Prix Mode Pit Stops Points Bonuses 1995 Winners Survival Driving: Braking Survival Driving: Cornering Survival Driving: Rumble Strips Survival Driving: Concrete Extensions Survival Driving: Tire Care Survival Driving: Drafting (Slipstreaming) Survival Driving: Wet-weather Racing/Driving General Tips F1-speak Differences from 'Modern' F1 Grand Prix of Brazil (Interlagos) Grand Prix of Argentina (Buenos Aries) Grand Prix of San Marino (Imola) Grand Prix of Spain (Catalunya) Grand Prix of Monaco (Monaco Temporary Street Circuit) Grand Prix of Canada (Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve) Grand Prix of France (Nevers Magny-Cours) Grand Prix of Great Britain (Silverstone) Grand Prix of Germany (Hockenheim) Grand Prix of Hungary (Hungaroring) Grand Prix of Belgium (Spa-Francorchamps) Grand Prix of Italy (Monza) Grand Prix of Portugal (Estoril) Grand Prix of Europe (Nurburgring) Grand Prix of Pacific (Aida) Grand Prix of Japan (Suzuka) Grand Prix of Australia (Adelaide) Bonus Track (Bizarre Grand Prix, Frameout City) Diagrams Contact Information ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== SPACING AND LENGTH For optimum readability, this driving guide should be viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier. Check for font setting by making sure the numbers and letters below line up: 1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz This guide is more than 70 pages long in the Macintosh version of Microsoft Word 98 using single-spaced Courier 12 font. ============================================== PERMISSIONS Permission is hereby granted for a user to download and/or print out a copy of this driving guide for personal use. However, due to the extreme length, printing this driving guide may not be such a good idea. This driving guide may only be posted on: FeatherGuides, GameFAQs.com, f1gamers.com, Games Domain, PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com, gamesover.com, Absolute-PlayStation.com, GameReactors.com, RedCoupe, InsidePS2Games.com, CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru, CheatHeaven, IGN, cheatingplanet.com, RobsGaming.com, neoseeker.com, ps2fantasy.com, and vgstrategies.com. Please contact me for permission to post elsewhere on the Internet. Should anyone wish to translate this game guide into other languages, please contact me for permission(s) and provide me with a copy when complete. Remember: Plagiarism in ANY form is NOT tolerated!!!!! ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== INTRODUCTION Formula1 is a 1995 F1-based racing game by Psygnosis. This is without a doubt one of the BEST racing games ever for PlayStation/PSOne, and it is still a highly-compelling game seven years beyond its initial release :-) Most likely, if you play Formula1, then you are at least a casual fan of F1 racing, and have at least a basic knowledge of many or all of the F1 courses currently in use. That knowledge certainly does help when first playing Formula1, and vice versa - as any extensive gameplay greatly helps in determining where the drivers are on each course when races are televised. The final segment of this driving guide provides information to help you to cleanly drive each course in the game. Even those who know the courses fairly well and/or play the game regularly can always use tips. Please note that some information for this guide is taken - with appropriate modifications - from some of my other game guides: F1 2002: Driving Guide World-famous Racing Circuits ============================================== ASSUMPTIONS AND CONVENTIONS Most race circuits outside the United States name most corners and chicanes, and even some straightaways. Where these names are known, they will be referenced in the Notes section of each circuit's suggested set-up. These names have been gathered from course maps available on the courses' official Web sites, my memory of how F1 races have been called by American TV sportscasters (Fox Sports Net and SpeedVision, in 1999-2001, and Speed Channel in 2002), and/or from the Training Mode of F1 Championship Season 2000 (corner/segment names are listed at the bottom of the screen). To the extent possible, these names have been translated into English. ============================================== QUICK RACE MODE Formula1 presents three different gameplay modes. Quick Race Mode is the fastest way to get started racing in Formula1. In this gameplay mode, the CPU automatically selects a team, a driver, and a racing venue. Inherently, Steering Assist and Braking Assist are both also activated, and all events are set to the Easy Skill Level. The player will always begin in last position (P24), and Quick Race Mode races are only three laps in length - this does NOT allow much time for a player to progress through the field to try to win the race. Quick Race Mode operates on a countdown timer. Time Extensions are provided each time the player reaches a sector timing point. There are three sector timing points for each race venue: the Start/Finish Line, plus two others. Note that not all sectors are of equal length/distance. Importantly, Quick Race Mode does NOT permit any initial changes to car set-up (tuning). This can only be done by going to Pit Lane... but doing so will almost certainly cause the player to lose the race and/or not be able to reach the next sector timing point before the countdown timer expires. ============================================== ARCADE MODE AND/VS. GRAND PRIX MODE Arcade Mode and Grand Prix Mode are the two main modes of gameplay in Formula1. Each are identical except for race length: Arcade Mode races are inherently three laps in length, whereas Grand Prix Mode races can vary in length from a minimum 5% of total race distance to the 100% total race distance. Both Arcade Mode and Grand Prix Mode comprise three racing options. Single Race is self-explanatory. Championship is the entire seventeen-race 1995 F1 season. Ladder is a twelve-round 'season' in which the player must finish ahead of the targeted car at each round/race in order to advance; as the player progresses through Ladder, the target car's skill and ending position continue to rise. Arcade Mode and Grand Prix Mode both allow the player to change the car set-up (tuning). These car set-up options include: Brake Assist: If activated, the CPU will automatically slow the car when approaching corners. Downforce: There are five downforce settings available. Downforce is dependent upon the front and rear wings, as only the wings keep the car on the ground, in a reverse fashion to airplanes, where the wings help to keep airplanes in the air. A low downforce setting provides faster top-end speed and quicker acceleration, but makes cornering more difficult. A high downforce setting makes cornering easier, but top-end speed is lowered and acceleration is slowed. Note that in Formula1, Downforce affects BOTH the front and rear wings. The two wings cannot be adjusted separately. Fuel Load: If Fuel Load is activated, then this will indicate how much fuel is carried in the car initially. More fuel can then be added by going to Pit Lane in a race. Steering Assist: If activated, most of the required car handling is done via the CPU. The player can certainly steer the car, but for the most part, the only steering necessary is just enough to pass other cars or to 'assist' the CPU in the tighter corners of a circuit. Transmission: The options are Automatic and Manual. However, 'Automatic' is actually Semi-automatic, as the player can use the Shift Up and Shift Down buttons to force gear shifts; however, if the engine revs do not match the player's gear selection, then the CPU will automatically default back to the previous gear. Both Arcade Mode and Grand Prix Mode permit the player to customize races in the Race Set Up menu. Adjustments can be made to weather, tire wear, car damage, and race order. Boost may also be activated; boost will give slower cars an easier time in trying to catch up with the race leaders, which at Medium and Hard Skill Levels can make races extremely competitive. Note that Arcade Mode does not permit changes to race length (Arcade Mode uses only five-lap races); Grand Prix Mode races can vary in length from a minimum 5% of total race distance to the 100% total race distance. At last, the player can select a team and driver. There are thirteen teams and twenty-six cars from which a player can choose. These are all based upon the teams and drivers competing in the 1995 F1 season. In Single Race within either Arcade Mode or Grand Prix Mode, the player can next select a race venue. The Pre-race menu permits the player to go to a Practice session, a Qualifying session, or the Race itself; any car set-up adjustments made in the earlier sessions will automatically carry over to the latter sessions. In Arcade Mode, the player are given one lap for qualifying; in Grand Prix Mode, the player is given a total of twelve laps (including Out-laps and In-laps) for qualifying, with the player's fastest lap time determining the starting position on the race grid. Those who skip Qualifying and go directly to Race will start in last position (P24). The main difference between Arcade Mode and Grand Prix Mode concerns going off the approved racing surfaces - even if only ONE wheel leaves the circuit. In Arcade Mode, the car will certainly slow semi-significantly when off the raceway, but it is still fairly easy to get back onto the circuit to continue on with the session/race. However, should a car go off the circuit in Grand Prix Mode, there is virtually NO car control at all, even with tire wear deactivated; getting back onto the raceway is then a very treacherous and harrowing experience even for expert drivers. ============================================== PIT STOPS During a race, the player may make a Pit Stop. This is useful to refuel, change tires, make car adjustments, and/or repair damage. Once in Pit Lane itself, the CPU will automatically take over car control, and the player will be able to select any desired car adjustments for once the car is in the team's assigned pit stall. ============================================== POINTS In F1 racing, points are distributed in accordance with FIA regulations: First Place: 10 points Second Place: 6 points Third Place: 4 points Fourth Place: 3 points Fifth Place: 2 points Sixth Place: 1 point Others: 0 points These points are given to both the cars' drivers AND the cars' teams (constructors) for the Drivers Championship and Constructors Championship; in effect, the points do 'double duty.' Those concerned about winning both championships should elect to play as a driver from a team with a strong track record (pardon the pun) for winning: Williams, Ferrari, etc. ============================================== BONUSES Those who win the Drivers Championship (by having the most points at the end of the season) in either Arcade Mode or Grand Prix Mode will unlock two items. The first is a trophy video, which is shortly followed by the full credits video for the game. At this point, it is important to go back to the main menu, head back to Memory, and save game progress. This will ensure that the main bonus is always available. The TRUE bonus is a new racing venue :-) This is a fictitious circuit which on the circuit map resembles the outline of an F1 racecar. Detailed driving instructions for this venue are included near the end of this guide. However, it is important to note that this is a VERY tricky circuit, due to both the many tight corners and the many steep inclines and descents. ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== 1995 WINNERS For player reference, here are the 1995 fastest laps and race winners for the entire season. Date Country Race Winner Team ----- ------------- ------------------ -------- 3/26 Brazil Michael Schumacher Benetton 4/9 Argentina Damon Hill Williams 4/30 San Marino Damon Hill Williams 5/14 Spain Michael Schumacher Benetton 5/28 Monaco Michael Schumacher Benetton 6/11 Canada Jean Alesi Ferrari 7/2 France Michael Schumacher Benetton 7/16 Great Britain Johnny Herbert Benetton 7/30 Germany Michael Schumacher Benetton 8/13 Hungary Damon Hill Williams 8/27 Belgium Michael Schumacher Benetton 9/10 Italy Johnny Herbert Benetton 9/24 Portugal David Coulthard Williams 10/1 Europe Michael Schumacher Benetton 10/22 Pacific Michael Schumacher Benetton 10/28 Japan Michael Schumacher Benetton 11/12 Australia Damon Hill Williams In the 1995 season, Michael Schumacher won nine of the seventeen races (starting from Pole Position four times), winning the Drivers' Championship with a total of 102 points. ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: BRAKING The first step in driving fast is knowing when, where, and how much to slow down (braking). In some games, a brake controller can be acquired or purchased, allowing the player to customize the brake strength by axle or by adjusting the bias of the brakes toward the front or the rear of the car. The use of a brake controller will affect the braking zone, as will other factors. Specifically, the car's speed on approaching a corner, the amount of fuel in the car at a given moment, the drivetrain of the car, the weight of the car, and even the car's center of gravity can all affect the braking zone. Similarly, the driving conditions - sunny, overcast, damp, wet, icy, snowy etc. - will affect the braking zone for each corner (as well as the car's ability to attain high speeds). Except for purely arcade-style games, the braking zone will differ somewhat for each car depending upon its strengths and weaknesses. It certainly helps for the player to try a Free Run or a Time Trial (if these modes exist in a given game) to learn the circuit(s) - including the braking zones. When looking for braking zones, try to find a particular stationary object near the entry of each corner; it helps tremendously if this object is far enough away from the circuit that it will not be knocked over during a race. To begin, try using the brakes when the front of the car is parallel with the chosen stationary object. If this does not slow the car enough before corner entry or if the car slows too much before reaching the corner, pick another stationary object on the following lap and try again. Whenever changes are made to the car - whether to the brake controller or to other aspects of tuning and/or parts - it would be a good idea to go back into Free Run mode and check that the braking zones still hold; if not, adjust as necessary using the method in the paragraph above. For those races which include fuel loads, the car will become progressively lighter during a race. The lesser weight can often mean a slightly shorter braking zone; however, if tire wear is excessive (especially if there have been numerous off-course excursions), that might dictate a longer braking zone. Cars with a higher horsepower output will inherently attain faster speeds, and will therefore require a longer braking zone than cars with a lower horsepower output. Try a Renault and a Ferrari along the same area of a circuit and note how their braking zones differ. A final note on braking: To the extent possible, ALWAYS brake in a straight line. If braking only occurs when cornering, the car will likely be carrying too much speed for the corner, resulting in the car sliding, spinning, and/or flipping. (Some games purposely do not permit the car to flip, but a slide or spin can still mean the difference between winning and ending up in last position at the end of a race.) If nothing else, players should strive to become of the 'breakers' they possibly can. This will essentially force a player to become a better racer/driver in general once the player has overcome the urge to constantly run at top speed at all times with no regard for damages to self or others. Also, slowing the car appropriately will make other aspects of racing/driving easier, especially in J-turns, hairpin corners, and chicanes. ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: CORNERING Ideally, the best way to approach a corner is from the outside of the turn, braking well before entering the corner. At the apex (the midpoint of the corner), the car should be right up against the edge of the pavement. On corner exit, the car drifts back to the outside of the pavement and speeds off down the straightaway. So, for a right-hand turn of about ninety degrees, enter the corner from the left, come to the right to hit the apex, and drift back to the left on corner exit. See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for a sample standard corner. For corners that are less than ninety degrees, it may be possible to just barely tap the brakes - if at all - and be able to clear such corners successfully. However, the same principles of cornering apply: approach from the outside of the turn, hit the apex, and drift back outside on corner exit. For corners more than ninety degrees but well less than 180 degrees, braking will certainly be required. However, for these 'J-turns,' the apex of the corner is not the midpoint, but a point approximately two-thirds of the way around the corner. J-turns require great familiarity to know when to begin diving toward the inside of the corner and when to power to the outside on corner exit. See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for a sample J-turn. Hairpin corners are turns of approximately 180 degrees. Braking is certainly required before corner entry, and the cornering process is the same as for standard corners: Approach from the outside, drift inside to hit the apex (located at halfway around the corner, or after turning ninety degrees), and drifting back to the outside on corner exit. See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for a sample hairpin corner. If there are two corners of approximately ninety degrees each AND both corners turn in the same direction AND there is only a VERY brief straightaway between the two corners, they may be able to be treated like an extended hairpin corner. Sometimes, however, these 'U-turns' have a straightaway between the corners that is long enough to prohibit a hairpin-like treatment; in this case, drifting to the outside on exiting the first of the two corners will automatically set up the approach to the next turn. See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for a sample U-turn. FIA (the governing body of F1 racing, World Rally Championship, and other forms of international motorsport) seems to LOVE chicanes. One common type of chicane is essentially a 'quick-flick,' where the circuit quickly edges off in one direction then realigns itself in a path parallel to the original stretch of pavement, as in the examples in the Diagrams section at the end of this guide. Here, the object is to approach the first corner from the outside, hit BOTH apexes, and drift to the outside of the second turn. FIA also seems to like the 'Bus Stop' chicane, which is essentially just a pair of quick-flicks, with the second forming the mirror image of the first, as shown in the Diagrams section at the end of this guide. Perhaps the most famous Bus Stop chicane is the chicane (which is actually called the 'Bus Stop Chicane') at Pit Entry at Spa- Francorchamps, the home of the annual Grand Prix of Belgium (F1 racing) and the host of The 24 Hours of Spa (for endurance racing). Virtually every other type of corner or corner combination encountered in racing (primarily in road racing) combines elements of the corners presented above. These complex corners and chicanes can be challenging, such as the Ascari chicane at Monza. See the Diagrams section for an idea of the formation of Ascari. One thing which can change the approach to cornering is the available vision. Blind and semi-blind corners require ABSOLUTE knowledge of such corners. Here is where gamers have an advantage over real-world drivers: Gamers can (usually) change their viewpoint (camera position), which can sometimes provide a wider, clearer view of the circuit, which can be especially important when approaching semi-blind corners; real-world drivers are obviously inhibited by the design of their cars and racing helmets. Great examples of real-world blind and semi-blind corners would be Turns 14 and 15 at Albert Park, and each of the first three corners at A1- Ring. Also important to cornering - especially with long, extended corners - is the corner's radius. Most corners use an identical radius throughout their length. However, some are increasing-radius corners or decreasing-radius corners. These corners may require shifting the apex point of a corner, and almost always result in a change of speed. Decreasing-radius corners are perhaps the trickiest, because the angle of the corner becomes sharper, thus generally requiring more braking as well as more turning of the steering wheel. Increasing-radius corners are corners for which the angle becomes more and more gentle as the corner progresses; this means that drivers will generally accelerate more, harder, or faster, but such an extra burst of speed can backfire and require more braking. See the Diagrams section at the end of this guide for sample images of a decreasing- radius corner and an increasing-radius corner. For traditional road racing circuits, increasing-radius and decreasing-radius corners may not be too much of a problem. After several laps around one of these circuits, a driver will know where the braking and acceleration points are as well as the shifted apex point (should a shift be required). One particularly interesting aspect of cornering is one which I honestly do not know if it works in reality (I am not a real-world racer, although I would certainly LOVE the chance to attend a racing school!!!), but which works in numerous racing/driving games I have played over the years. This aspect is to use the accelerator to help with quickly and safely navigating sharp corners. This works by first BRAKING AS USUAL IN ADVANCE OF THE CORNER, then - once in the corner itself - rapidly pumping the brakes for the duration of the corner (or at least until well past the apex of the corner). The action of rapidly pumping the accelerator appears to cause the drive wheels to catch the pavement just enough to help stop or slow a sliding car, causing the non-drive wheels to continue slipping and the entire car to turn just a little faster. Using this rapid-pumping technique with the accelerator does take a little practice initially, and seems to work best with FR cars; however, once perfected, this technique can pay dividends, especially with REALLY sharp hairpin corners, such as La Source at Spa-Francorchamps. ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: RUMBLE STRIPS Depending on car set-up and weather conditions, rumble strips (sometimes also called 'alligators') can be either useful or dangerous. The purpose of rumble strips is to provide a few extra centimeters of semi-racing surface to help keep cars from dropping wheels off the pavement, which can slow cars and throw grass and other debris onto the racing surface (which makes racing a little more dangerous for all involved, especially in corners). Generally, rumble strips are found on the outside of a corner at corner entry and corner exit, and also at the apex of a corner - these locations provide a slightly better racing line overall. If a car is set with a very stiff suspension (i.e., there is not much room for the suspension to move as the car passes over bumps and other irregularities in the racing surface), hitting rumble strips can cause the car to jump. Even if airborne for only a few milliseconds, at speed, it could be just enough so that the driver loses control of the car. Obviously, if one or more wheels are not in contact with the ground, the car is losing speed, which could be just enough of a mistake for other cars to pass by, and the lack of contact with the ground could result in excessive wheelspin which risks to flat-spot the tire(s) when contact is regained with the ground. When the racetrack is damp or wet, however, it is generally best to avoid using the rumble strips. Since rumble strips are painted (usually red and white), ANY amount of moisture will make the rumble strips extremely slick as the water beads on the paint, so that hitting a rumble strip in the process of cornering (especially at the apex of a corner) will cause the tire(s) to lose traction and often send the car spinning. ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: CONCRETE EXTENSIONS Similar to rumble strips are concrete extensions. These are generally (much) wider than rumble strips, and may or may not be painted (at FIA-approved F1 circuits, for example, these are generally painted green). Also, whereas rumble strips protrude slightly above the level of the racing surface, concrete extensions are at the same level as the racing surface. Concrete extensions can be used in the same manner as rumble strips. However, if painted, concrete extensions should be avoided for the same reasons listed above for rumble strips n the event of wet or damp racing conditions. Players should note that in some games - especially where challenges or license tests are involved - concrete extensions are often NOT designated as part of the official track, resulting in an 'Out of Bounds' designation. This is true, for example, in EA Sports' F1-based series (F1 2000, F1 Championship Season 2000, F1 2001, and F1 2002). ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: TIRE CARE At the beginning of a race and immediately after a Pit Stop, the tires are brand new ('stickers') and need to be brought up to temperature as quickly as possible so that they can provide the best possible grip. During this period, sharp turns or extremely-fast cornering will almost certainly cause the car to slide, and perhaps even spin. However, slides and spins will bring the tires up to optimum temperature even faster, so you may wish to purposely induce slides when entering corners, but only with extreme caution, as the already-thin line between having control of the car and losing control of the car will be at least halved until the tires come up to optimum temperature. The longer you run on the same set of tires, the more you need to take better care of your tires. This is especially important if you have had one or more off-course excursions. You may experience slides when cornering. If you have several offs with the same set of tires and find yourself sliding around the circuit a lot more than usual, you definitely need to return to Pit Lane for a new set of tires. Essentially, you are driving on pure ice, and the only way to 'reliably' get around the circuit is to bounce off the rails - which is extremely difficult to do 'correctly' to keep yourself pointed forward. One of the best ways to reduce the durability of the tires is to corner at high speeds. The manual for Gran Turismo 3 gives an excellent, detailed description of what occurs with the tires when cornering. In short, cornering at high speeds causes a high percentage of the tire to be used for speed, and a low percentage to be used for the actual cornering. To combat this and thus extend the durability of the tires, try to brake in a STRAIGHT line before reaching a turn, thus reducing overall speed and providing a lower percentage of the tires to be used for speed, and a greater percentage used for cornering. Note that if the percentage of the tires used for speed is too high compared to the percentage used for cornering, the car will slide and/or spin. ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: DRAFTING (SLIPSTREAMING) Drafting (also called slipstreaming) can be a very valuable technique for passing, especially on high-speed circuits with long straightaways. Drafting entails closely following a car, and allowing that car's aerodynamic vacuum to draw your car closer and closer while simultaneously giving your car a short boost in speed; just before colliding with the other car, dart out to the side and speed past as the 'extra' speed gained slowly drains away. This tactic is best used on long straightaways, and can be a prime passing method when combined with late braking at the end of a straightaway. If at all possible, try to draft off multiple cars, making several passes at once while gaining a TRULY dramatic spike in top-end speed. However, QUICK reflexes and good tire grip are very important to edging your car far enough out of the way to safely make a pass while drafting, otherwise you will ram or clip the lead car. Also, in F1 2002, some CPU-controlled cars will actually slow (sometimes significantly) if you try to use their aerodynamic wake to pass, adding more necessity to a player's quick reflexes. On the right side of the race screen, a set of bars will slowly light up as a driver gets closer and closer behind another car, thus able to take advantage of the lead car's slipstream (aerodynamic vacuum) to suddenly jump out and make a pass. When racing in very wet weather when cars are launching a tall 'rooster tail' of spray in their wake, the slipstream meter can be used to approximate the distance to the car in front as well as the closing speed. ============================================== SURVIVAL DRIVING: WET-WEATHER RACING/DRIVING Almost everything written to this point in the guide focuses solely upon dry-weather racing/driving conditions. In fact, most racing/driving games deal ONLY with dry-weather conditions. However, simulation-based games such as Formula1 will include at least a few wet-conditions situations. In wet-weather racing/driving conditions, it is IMPERATIVE to use tires designed for wet-conditions usage. Tires aside, simulation-style games simply will not allow a player to drive a circuit the same way in wet-weather conditions as in dry-weather conditions. The braking zone for all but the gentlest of corners will need to be extended, or else the car risks to hydroplane itself off the pavement. Throttle management is also key in wet-conditions racing. Due to the water on the circuit, there is inherently less tire grip, so strong acceleration is more likely to cause undue wheelspin - which could in turn spin the car and create a collision. If a car has gone off the pavement, then the sand and/or grass which collect on the tires provide absolutely NO traction at all, so just the act of getting back to the pavement will likely result in numerous spins. In general, cornering is more difficult in wet conditions than in dry conditions. To help ease this difficulty in cornering, simulation-style games will sometimes allow the player to change the car's tuning during a race (if not, the player will be forced to try to survive using the tuning set- up chosen before the beginning of the race). The main aspect to change for wet-weather conditions is to raise the downforce at the front and/or rear of the car; this will help improve cornering ability, but will result in slower top-end speed and slower acceleration. When the circuit is damp or wet, rumble strips and concrete extensions (which are usually painted) should be avoided as much as possible. The water tends to bead on the paint used for rumble strips and concrete extensions, making them incredibly slippery, especially if a drive wheel is on a rumble strip or concrete extension while the player is in the process of turning the car; this will cause undue wheelspin in that particular drive wheel, usually resulting in the car spinning. ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== GENERAL TIPS A general tip for ALL racing games is to successfully complete ALL the license tests in any game of the Gran Turismo series. This is a great way to learn how to handle cars of all drivetrain formats and horsepower ratings in a wide variety of situations - starting and stopping, J-turns, right-angle corners, chicanes, blind turns, wet racing conditions, etc. This will all be very handy for virtually ANY racing/driving game you ever play... and the Gran Turismo games are also extremely good to have in your PSX/PS2 collection (especially GT3 on PS2). Another general tip for ALL racing games is to read through my General Racing/Driving Guide, available EXCLUSIVELY at FeatherGuides (http://feathersites.angelcities.com/) and at GameFAQs (http://www.GameFAQs.com). This presents many of the same information the Gran Turismo license tests present in practice, plus plenty of other information ranging from judicious use of rumble strips to typical tuning options to tire management. F1's standing starts can either give you a great advantage, or put you at the back of the pack. To reduce or eliminate wheelspin from a standing start, try to time the use of the accelerator with the exact millisecond the green light comes on. If you use the accelerator too soon, you WILL have wheelspin, which can cause flat-spotting in the rear tires and can even cause your car to go askew so that it points in a trajectory taking you directly OFF the circuit (or into a barrier). Also related to the standing starts, if you are deep in the pack, the car directly in front of you is likely to produce A LOT of smoke (and spray, if in wet conditions at the beginning of a race) due to wheelspin. If at all possible, swing to the edge of the pavement immediately to avoid an early accident if you can get off the line a lot sooner than the car in front. Some circuits are set up so that there is either wide pavement on the Pit Straight or an expanse of pavement unofficially part of the main circuit itself (such as the right side of the pavement at Monza and at Suzuka); making use of these areas can allow you to swing out wide to avoid incidents, and also get you clear of traffic so that you can REALLY slam on the accelerator and pass huge numbers of cars before the initial corners of the circuit. Braking is always important in racing. However, Formula1 demands SMOOTH braking, which often means braking rather early. Slamming on the brakes often results in wheel lock and/or car spin, which can induce flat-spotting on the tires and tremendously increases the risk of collision - especially with the Tire Wear option activated. Even after the standing starts, the use of the accelerator is extremely important in Formula1. By exercising extreme care with both the brakes and the accelerator, anyone can rapidly learn to essentially glide through corners at a rather quick speed. A pristine racing line is also important in these situations, as the changes in G-force and velocity need to be constantly kept in check if you want to remain on the official course. I personally find it sometimes easier to take tight corners WITHOUT braking. In these cases, simply let off the accelerator and coast toward and through the corner until the appropriate acceleration point, usually at or just beyond the apex. One very good place to attempt this strategy is at the initial corners at Monza (Italy), although this tactic can have rather dire consequences at the start of a race with all the cars bunched together. ============================================== F1-SPEAK F1 racing has a somewhat specialized vocabulary. Here are some of the more common terms: ARMCO: The type of barriers generally used at F1 races. Information on these crash barriers can be found at Hill and Smith Web site (http://www.hill-smith.co.uk/). Blowed up: A car's engine has expired. This is characterized by a massive plume of white-grey smoke pouring from the rear of the car. Also, there is often oil deposited all over the race circuit, so if a blowed up car does not instantly pull off the pavement, that section of the circuit will be very dangerous for the remainder of the race. Catch: In any form of auto racing, it is quite common to see a car slide off the course, often at high speeds. Generally, this results in a car either being essentially beached in a sand trap, stuck in the grass if the area has recently experienced a significant rainfall, or a collision a barrier. Even if the car does not slide off the course, spins on the racing circuit itself also occur with relative frequency. A 'catch' is when one of the above incidents occurs, but the driver is able to either keep the car from hitting a barrier (or another car) and/or is able to keep the car from getting stuck in the sand or grass before returning to the circuit. Lollipop Man: The man holding the Brakes stick in a Pit Stop. This stick essentially looks like a long lollipop, with its long handle and rounded end with instructions for the driver. Off: A car has gone off-course. A minor off means that only one or perhaps two wheels have slipped off the pavement, and the driver can generally recover quickly. However, a major off involves a trip well off the pavement, and usually also occurs at very high speed. P#: This indicates a driver's race position. P1 is Pole Position; P6 is the final points-paying position; P22 is last place. Points-paying Positions: These are the Top 6 places in a race. At the end of a race, P1 awards 10 points, P2 awards 6 points, P3 awards 4 points, P4 awards 3 points, P5 awards 2 points, and P1 awards 1 point. There are NO points awarded to drivers not finishing in the Top 6. This also the reason why the TV Panels at the bottom of the screen update by six positions at once; in F1 2002, the updates are generally ONLY for the points-paying positions. Shunt: A collision, generally between cars. This term could also be used for cars swapping paint, but that is EXTREMELY difficult to do in open- wheel racing (such as F1) without inducing an accident. Team Orders: Each F1 team runs two cars at each race weekend. Team orders involve one or both drivers purposely altering driving style or changing race positions for the betterment of the team. While team orders are NOT illegal in F1 competition (they are illegal in some other forms of motorsport), many generally have a strong dislike (and even a nasty hatred) for team orders, especially in those situations where team orders actually change the results of a race. The most notable incidence of team orders - and likely the most controversial use of team orders in F1 history past, present, or future - involved Ferrari's Reubens Barrichello, who had dominated the entire race weekend, pulling over in the final meters of the 2002 Grand Prix of Austria (at A1-Ring) so that his teammate Michael Schumacher could instead take the win, thus gaining an extra four points over his strong rival Juan Pablo Montoya in the Drivers' Championship. This use of team orders severely angered F1 fans at the circuit and around the world, but was justified by Ferrari by the team's desire to protect Schumacher's lead in the Drivers' Championship. World Feed: Because F1 races are televised (generally live) worldwide, FIA has implemented the World Feed system, in which the images of grand prix weekends are provided by the FIA- licensed F1 broadcaster for the country hosting each grand prix; all other F1 broadcasters must then use these images and sounds for their F1 coverage. There are provisions for the many F1-licensed broadcasters worldwide to include Pit Lane reports, but once a race begins, FIA prohibits any images from Pit Lane which are NOT provided by the World Feed system. Since each race is essentially 'televised' by a different country's F1-licensed broadcaster, the World Feed coverage between races definitely varies in quality. The World Feed for races in Malaysia is generally rather poor, with images often focusing on action away from what is most significant for the race or the overall season standings, reflecting Malaysia's F1-licensed broadcaster's lack of experience and knowledge in televising live F1 races. Races held in Western Europe - where many F1 races are held - generally have a very high quality World Feed due to extensive experience and knowledge in televising F1 races. ============================================== DIFFERENCES FROM 'MODERN' F1 For those who are very familiar with 'modern' F1 (with 'modern' being defined as 'the past few years'), there are some differences between current F1-based games (such as EA Sports' F1 2002) and Formula1. First, the 1995 season had either 24 or 26 cars on each starting grid, depending on the race. Obviously, some drivers from the 1995 season are no longer racing in F1, and many of the 1995 drivers who are still in current F1 racing are with different teams. For example, Michael Schumacher has 'always' been the lead driver for Ferrari since I first began avidly following F1 in 2000, so to see him in anything BUT a Ferrari is at best weird to me (Michael Schumacher drover for Benetton in 1995). Unfortunately, Murray Walker, the lead F1 commentator for the English-language broadcasts across much of the world, retired after the 2001 F1 season. However, Walker's highly- distinctive voice lives on forever in Formula1... although some complain that the commentary is simply 'too much,' that he is almost ALWAYS chattering away. However, he does present some good information, such as the Top 6 drivers at various points in a race (which is good to know if the player is too busy to read the television-style information at the bottom of the screen). Formula1 uses a different lighting system than that used for race starts in current F1 racing and F1-based games. Currently, there are six lights, illuminated at a one-second interval; after all six lights are illuminated, another one- second interval follows, and then the lights are extinguished, signaling the beginning of the race. Formula1, however, uses only five lights: four red lights and one green light, all illuminated at a one-second interval; once the green light is illuminated, the race can officially begin. Formula1 does not include rules. Therefore, there are no penalties for speeding in a section where Yellow Flags are waving, no penalties for unsportsmanlike conduct, no penalties for shortcutting corners or chicanes, etc.; this option simply is not programmed into the game. 'Modern' F1 games, however, include this as a game option, so that players can activate and deactivate the rules (and, thus, also the use of flags) at whim. Certainly, the F1 calendar changes from one season to another, although the same races are generally used in roughly the same order. I am writing this update (version 2.0) approximately one week after a rules committee for F1 voted to make significant changes beginning with the 2003 season in an effort to make F1 more competitive in the Drivers' Championship and the Constructors' Championship. (These changes are all different from Formula1). First, points will be assigned to the Top EIGHT finishers at each race, in this order: First Place: 10 points Second Place: 8 points Third Place: 6 points Fourth Place: 5 points Fifth Place: 4 points Sixth Place: 3 points Seventh Place: 2 points Eighth Place: 1 point Others: 0 points Second, since the calendar changes somewhat from one season to another, some of the circuits in Formula1 are no longer in use: Adelaide (replaced by Albert Park for the Grand Prix of Australia), Aida, Estoril, and Buenos Aries. The United States Grand Prix was added in 2000, taking place on the specially-built Indianapolis infield circuit at Indianapolis Motor Speedway. The Grand Prix of Malaysia has also been added, using the Sepang Circuit near Kuala Lampur; the Sepang Circuit is supposedly the first of the 'new wave' of F1 venues worldwide, as it is rather safety-conscious in design and highly conducive to passing due to its great width. Recently, the groundbreaking ceremony was held near Beijing for the construction of what will be the first-ever F1 circuit in China. Unfortunately, the Grand Prix of Belgium (at Spa-Francorchamps) has been a late elimination from the 2003 F1 season due to the Belgian government's ban on tobacco advertising, which is rather prevalent for some F1 teams; the Belgian government refused to permit a 'waiver' for F1 for the 2003 season, so the elimination of Spa-Francorchamps has been a not-unexpected but nonetheless-devastating blow to the many diehard F1 fans worldwide >:-( Third, the 2003 F1 season will see the introduction of TWO dry-conditions tire compounds per team per race. Teams will still be limited to one wet-conditions tire compound. In terms of 'modern' F1-based games, this should hopefully force game developers to allow player to use Soft Tires, Hard Tires, AND Medium Tires; current F1-based gamed neglect Medium Tires. Finally, Qualifying will be a two-day process. First, the ranking of the drivers at the end of Friday Practice #2 will be used in reverse order for the Saturday Qualifying runs; in other words, the driver is fastest at Friday Practice #2 will be the last driver to run during Qualifying on Saturday. Qualifying itself will be reduced to one car on the circuit at a time, with each driver given only one hotlap. In essence, these new Qualifying rules are a mixture of CART's oval-track Qualifying (one car at a time) and road-/street- /airport-track Qualifying (essentially a 'two-day' Qualifying). ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF BRAZIL (INTERLAGOS) Most F1 courses are driven clockwise; built on a steep hillside, Interlagos is driven counter-clockwise, which I understand causes 'undue' fatigue to drivers' necks as the race progresses. The upper part of the course features two extensive segments of flat-out, full-throttle, top-speed driving. However, the lower part of the course (where the most clock time is spent per lap) features tight corners and several significant elevation changes. However, despite these two very different sections of the circuit, the car set-up is not quite as key here as at Indianapolis. Pit Straight: This is the highest point of the course in terms of elevation. There is no room to pull off the course here if there is a problem with a car, as the barriers rub against the pavement on both sides of the track. This is also the fastest portion of the course, leading into the most dangerous set of corners in all of F1 racing. There are several left-hand fades along the 'Pit Straight.' This 'straightaway' is the longest stretch of flat-out acceleration of this course. The optimal racing line is hard to the left, so be careful not to rub the left-side tires against the barriers, especially when passing the Pit Lane Entry. The Pit Entrance is also to the left; beware of slow cars entering Pit Lane. Turn 1 (S do Senna): Especially since this corner follows an incredibly long and fast 'Pit Straight,' this is by far the most dangerous turn on the course, and thus perhaps the most dangerous corner in all of F1 racing. This is a tight, left- hand, semi-blind, downhill corner requiring severe braking long before reaching the turn. Unless you have PERFECT confidence in your car's braking AND turning ability, this is definitely NOT a place to pass!!! For those who overrun the corner, there is a continent-size patch of kitty litter. Turn 2 (S do Senna): Following immediately after Turn 1, it is best to coast through this right-hand corner, with strong acceleration on exit to set up prime passing opportunities in Curva du Sol or along the following straightaway. Beware the Pit lane barrier practically rubbing up against the pavement here on the left. (Historical note: The Pit Lane used to rejoin the main course at the exit of Turn 2, but FIA and the drivers deemed that this was too dangerous.) Turn 3 (Curva du Sol): Immediately following S do Senna, Turn 3 is a gentle left-hand corner which can also be taken at top speed. Just beyond the exit of Turn 3, the Pit Lane rejoins the main course on the left. Curva du Sol leads into the second-longest straightaway of the circuit. Straightaway: This long straightaway presents a gentle downhill slope leading to the lower portion of the course. Keep to the right on exiting Curva du Sol so that cars rejoining the race from the Pit Lane can blend in without incident. Turn 4 (Lago): This corner truly begins the lower portion of the course in terms of elevation. Lago is a semi-hidden left-hand corner with a slight downward slope. Moderate braking is necessary here to keep from sliding the car into the recovery zone, especially if the track is wet. Good acceleration out of Lago sets up great passing in the next corner and along the following straightaway. Do not overrun the course, or you will be slowed severely by the sand and grass. Turn 5: A gentle left-hand turn, this can be taken at full throttle. The course begins to slope upward again. However, do not try to take this corner to sharply on the apex, as the barrier may not agree with your tactics. Straightaway: This is effectively the last straightaway before the Pit Straight at the beginning of the course. The course here slopes upward, so cars with excellent acceleration out of Turns 4 and 5 can pass those with poor uphill speed. Turn 6 (Laranjinha): This is the beginning of a pair of right-hand corners which effectively form a 'U' shape. The entry of this corner can be taken at full throttle, but be ready to touch the brakes at the exit of this corner. Turn 6 is also on the crown of a hill. Turn 7 (Laranjinha): The final corner of a 'U' shape in the course, this is a right-hand decreasing-radius corner with a gentle downward slope. Turn 8 (Curva do S): After an almost negligible straightaway, this incredibly tight right-hand corner requires hard braking. The course also begins to slope downhill at the beginning of Turn 8. Pinheirinho immediately follows. Turn 9 (Pinheirinho): Immediately upon exiting Turn 8, slam on the brakes again (or simply coast) for the sharp left-hand Pinheirinho. This may potentially a good place to pass other cars. Turn 9 is a long corner, however, so it is important to hug the apex much longer than usual. Extreme caution must be taken here if racing in wet conditions, or you will find yourself sliding into the sand. The exit of Pinheirinho leads to an upward-sloping straightaway. Turn 10 (Bica do Pato): The entrance of Turn 10 begins the final downward slope of the course, making this right-hand corner even more difficult to navigate. Heavy braking and excellent hands are required to maneuver the car safely through this corner, especially in the rain. Good acceleration is needed exiting Bica do Pato to pass traffic in the next corner and ensuing straightaway. The kitty litter is available if you overshoot the corner, but then you will quickly find yourself rubbing against a barrier. Turn 11 (Mergulho): This left-hand corner almost immediately follows Bica do Pato and can be taken almost flat-out to provide good speed along the next (very short) straightaway. Good acceleration out of Bica do Pato makes this a good passing zone if you have a decent racing line, otherwise you may find yourself off the course on the outside of the corner. Turn 12 (Juncao): This is a tight left-hand corner requiring moderate to heavy braking. The final, steep uphill slope begins here, and the exit of the corner is hidden (even in chase view). It is extremely easy to run off the outside of the corner here, but a small patch of grass and another paved lane provide some run-off relief here. This corner leads to the incredibly long Pit Straight. Pit Entry: As you climb the long 'Pit Straight,' the Pit Lane begins on the left. Pit Exit: The Pit Lane once emptied onto the exit of Turn 2; it now rejoins the main course just after the exit of Curva du Sol. This makes Pit Lane extremely long, which makes it extremely important to select your pit strategy carefully in long races. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF ARGENTINA (BUENOS ARIES) This is a challenging circuit with plenty of speed tempered with a few nasty corners. Excellent circuit knowledge is required at this venue, especially since some corners are blind on approach. While braking is important at ANY race venue, throttle management is extremely vital at Buenos Aries. Turn 1: This is a right-hand J-turn requiring moderate or heavy braking on approach due to the great speeds attained along Pit Straight. It is fairly easy to overshoot this corner, so good circuit knowledge is key here. On corner exit, the circuit doglegs to the right, behind the Paddock area. Turn 2: This is a left-hand J-turn requiring moderate braking. This is not quite as severe a corner as Turn 1, and is certainly easier to see on approach. Turn 3: Shortly after Turn 2, this is a moderate left-hand corner. Soft braking should suffice here, using the brakes just enough to keep from slipping off the pavement. Turns 4 and 5: This double-apex section heads to the right. Turn 4 requires soft or moderate braking, whereas Turn 5 can be taken at full acceleration so long as the driver can keep a tight racing line. Strong power out of Turn 4 means plenty of passing opportunities up to Turn 6. Straightaway: Following Turn 5 is the single-longest section of flat-out acceleration at Buenos Aries. This makes powerful acceleration out of Turn 4 virtually a requirement for passing a slew of cars through Turn 5 and along this straightaway. About 3/4 of the way along the straightaway, there is a dogleg to the right; this is a good marker for the braking zone for Turn 6. Turn 6: This is a tricky right-hand hairpin on a steep uphill incline. Even worse, this hairpin is semi-blind on approach (unless traffic is present to help mark the corner), so drivers can easily overshoot this corner. Due to the long section of flat-out acceleration preceding the hairpin, Turn 6 has a rather lengthy braking zone, although those drivers who are VERY confident in their braking power and the condition of their tires can certainly attempt to pass on braking on entering this hairpin corner. Turn 7 and 8: Very quickly after the hairpin at Turn 6, this is a rapid left-right chicane which is semi-blind on approach. Those unfamiliar with the circuit will certainly miss this chicane and lose control of the car in the grass and sand. Depending on the car's speed coming out of Turn 6, slight or moderate braking will be needed for the chicane. Turns 9 and 10: Almost immediately after the chicane, the circuit turns twice to the left. The straightaway between Turns 9 and 10 is very short, but is still long enough that it is not possible to treat this section of the circuit as one elongated hairpin corner. Slight or moderate braking will be needed for both corners. Turns 11 and 12: Shortly following Turn 10 is the single most difficult section of the circuit. This is a left-right chicane on a steep descent back to the lower level of the circuit. Because of the steep descent, the entire chicane is hidden from view until it is too late to safely turn into it, which means that PRISTINE knowledge of this area of the circuit is key to a fast lap time. Moderate or heavy braking is required here. Turn 13: After a moderate-length straightaway, the circuit makes a J-turn to the right. Moderate braking will be required here. Immediately upon corner exit, the circuit doglegs to the left. Powerful acceleration out of Turn 13 will set up passing opportunities along Pit Straight and into Turn 1. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF SAN MARINO (IMOLA) The Imola circuit is challenging but rather fun. Again, this is a 'counterclockwise' circuit, but, oddly, the Pits and Paddock are located on the outside of the circuit and not on the inside. There is extremely little tolerance for shortcutting the chicanes. Due to the slope of the grass on the inside of the corner, Turn 6 (Tosa) is essentially a blind corner unless traffic is present to mark the course for you. Pit Straight: This is a long straightaway, which enables high speeds as the cars cross the Start/Finish Line. Good exit speed out of the final chicane makes for prime passing and a good show for the spectators. The Pit Straight fades to the left at the exit of Pit Lane (which is aligned with the Start/Finish Line). Once past the Pits, there is a barrier directly against the right side of the track. Turns 1 and 2 (Tamburello): This is a left-right chicane. Turn 1 requires moderate braking, but if you slow enough in Turn 1, you should be able to drive at full throttle through Turn 2 and beyond. If you try to take the entire chicane at full speed, you can make it through Turn 1 fairly well, but you will quickly find yourself in the grass on the outside of Turn 2 and banging against the nearby barrier. If you completely miss the braking zone for Turn 1, there is a huge sand trap to help you recover. Turn 3 (Tamburello): Immediately following Turn 2, Turn 3 is a soft left-hand corner which can be taken at full speed. Strong acceleration out of Turn 1 and through Turn 2 makes this a good passing zone. Following this corner is a significant straightaway. Turns 4 and 5 (Villeneuve): This is another left-right chicane, but not as lengthy as the first. Care must be taken not to slide off the course at the exit of Turn 5. It is possible for experts to fly through this chicane at top speed (if not encumbered by traffic) by rolling up on the rumble strips, but doing so produces a significant chance of losing control of the car and crashing into the barrier on the left side of the circuit as the sandy recovery area severely narrows on approach to Tosa. The course slopes upward at the exit of this chicane. Turn 6 (Tosa): This is a semi-blind left-hand corner which continues the upward slope of the course. Moderate or even severe braking is required here, or else your car will be in the kitty litter and headed toward the spectators. Traffic is actually a benefit in approaching this corner, as the course is largely hidden from view given the slope of the grass on the inside of the corner, but other cars are easy to see. Straightaway: The course continues up the hill here. Just beyond the overhead billboard, the track fades to the right as it begins its gentle downward slope, but then leads directly into Piratella. Turn 7 (Piratella): The course continues downward here, with the slope increasing. This is a left-hand semi-blind corner. It is rather easy to slip off the pavement here and into the kitty litter on the outside of the corner. Any passing here is best made tight to the apex of the corner, perhaps with only the right-side wheels on the pavement or rumble strip. Turn 8: Barely a corner at all but more than a fade, the course gently turns to the left here. This is a full-speed 'corner,' but the racing line is still very important here. Turns 9 and 10 (Mineralli): This is a pair of right-hand corners which effectively function as a decreasing-radius 'U' formation and are best taken in this manner. Turn 9 can be taken at full speed, but upon exit to the outside of Turn 9, severe braking is needed and extra steering to the right is required to safely navigate around the decreasing-radius Turn 10. The track begins another (steep) uphill slope in Turn 10. Tightly hugging the apex allows for prime passing through Turn 10. Care must be taken not to enter Turn 10 too fast, or else you will be off the course on the left. Turn 11 (Mineralli): Immediately following Turn 10, the left- hand Turn 11 continues the upward slope of the course. Care must be taken not to slip off to the right of the track on exit. Turns 12-13 (Alta Chicane): This is a tight right-left chicane. Other cars generally slow significantly for this chicane, so a full-speed maneuver here in traffic is NOT advised. In fact, attempting to take this chicane at top speed will require rolling up on the rumble strips, and you will likely lose control and either spin or collide with the all-too-close barrier to the right side of the course. The barrier to the outside of Turn 13 is very close to the track, so be careful not to slip off the course. Alta Chicane, due to its placement just slightly beyond the crest of the circuit, is also 100% unsighted on approach, so it is very easy to miss the chicane and either overshoot it or turn too early - either method results in a Stop-Go Penalty. Straightaway: The course begins its final downhill slope here, fading gently first to the left, then to the right. Turns 14 and 15 (Rivazza): This is a left-hand 'U' formation. Moderate braking is required entering Turn 14, but then Turn 15 can be taken at full speed (IF you slowed enough in Turn 14), although some may feel more comfortable lightly tapping the brakes here. Caution must be taken to use enough braking entering the 'U' formation, or else you will end up in the sand on the right side of the track. Straightaway: This is the final long straightaway before reaching the Pit Straight. However, the official course fades to the right just after passing underneath the Helix banner; driving straight ahead (the pavement of the old course) and thus missing the entire final chicane results in a Stop-Go Penalty. The end of this straightaway provides two options: 1.) Keep driving straight ahead onto Pit Lane; 2.) Turn left for the final chicane. Turns 16 and 17 (Bassa Chicane): This is the final chicane (left-right) of the course. To the outside of Turn 16 is the Pit Lane entry, so be mindful of slower cars entering Pit Lane as you approach the chicane. Moderate braking is required entering Turn 16, but then Turn 17 requires light braking. Be VERY careful riding the rumble strips in Bassa Chicane, as wheelspin on the rumble strips is likely to force the car out of control, which means either getting caught in the kitty litter inside Turn 17, or colliding with the barrier (which is VERY close to the pavement) on exiting the chicane. Pit Entry: Instead of turning left for Turn 16, keep driving directly ahead. However, there is no room for slowing once you leave the main course, so stay tight to the right side of the pavement as you slow to enter Pit Lane. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF SPAIN (CATALUNYA) The Catalunya circuit is challenging, especially the two hairpins and the final corners of the race. For observers and drivers alike, plenty of action can be found at the Spanish Grand Prix. Intertextal Note: The Catalunya circuit is also used in the PS2 game Le Mans 24 Hours. Pit Straight: As usual, incredible speeds can be attained here. Watch for cars rejoining the race from the right side of the straightaway about two-thirds of the way along its massive length. Turn 1 (Elf): This is a right-hand corner which requires moderate braking. Be careful not to hug the inside of the corner too tightly, or you will damage your right-side tires on the barrier. Strong acceleration out of Turn 1 creates great passing opportunities all the way to Repsol. Attempting to take Turn 1 at top speed will either cause you to lose control as you run up on the rumble strips, or send you too far off course to survive Turn 2 intact. Turn 2 (Elf): Immediately following Turn 1, the left-hand Turn 2 can usually be taken at top acceleration. With strong acceleration out of Turn 1, this is a prime passing zone. Turn 3 (Seat): A sweeping right-hand increasing-radius corner which can be taken at full speed with a flawless racing line. This is also a good place to pass slower cars, especially if you have the inside line. Turn 4 (Repsol): This is a semi-blind right-hand hairpin corner which requires moderate or heavy braking. The barrier on the inside of the corner rests almost directly against the track, and blocks your view around the corner. This can actually be a good place to pass on braking, but only with extreme caution (and usually only if the car you wish to pass takes the wide line around the corner). Don't come too hot into this corner or else you will find yourself in the sand. After clearing the first 90 degrees, you should be able to accelerate fairly well if not encumbered by traffic. Turn 5: After a very short straightaway, this is a semi-blind left-hand hairpin, a bit tighter than Turn 4. Moderate or heavy braking will be needed here, or you will definitely find yourself in the kitty litter. Straightaway: This straightaway fades to the left. Strong acceleration out of Turn 5 can create passing opportunities, especially in the braking zone for Wuth. Turn 6 (Wuth): With a good racing line, you should be able to brake lightly to clear this semi-blind, slightly-downhill, left-hand corner. Beware the barrier on the inside of Wuth. The exit of Wuth has an immediate fade to the right, so do not commit too much to turning left here, or the front-left of the car will be shaking hands with the barrier. Turn 7 (Campsa): This right-hand corner can be taken at full speed with a flawless racing line. Note that the official circuit is to the right; do not drive directly ahead onto another patch of pavement, or you will be assigned a Stop-Go Penalty. Turn 8 (La Cacsa): Severe braking is required for this left- hand corner. While not suggested, you may be able to pass other cars on braking here. As with Wuth, stay off the rumble strips and grass on the inside of the turn, or you will risk losing control of the car. This is a 'J' turn, and the corner seems to go on forever before you reach the exit. Turn 9 (Banc Sabadeau): Shortly following Turn 8, moderate or heavy braking will be needed here for the right-hand, upward- sloping corner. This is also a 'J' turn which is nearly a double-apex corner. If you need a recovery area anywhere on the course, it will most likely be here. It is possible to pass slower cars here by tightly hugging the inside of the turn, even running the right-side tires on the rumble strips or just slightly in the grass. Turn 10: Light braking may be needed for this right-hand corner. The key here is to truly hug the inside of the turn and accelerate strongly through the exit. Watch for slow cars here preparing to go to Pit Lane for servicing. Turn 11: Entering this right-hand corner, the Pit Lane begins on the right, so be on the lookout for very slow cars here. If you take this final corner too tightly, or make a VERY late decision to go to the pits, you will certainly damage the front of the car on a barrier. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF MONACO (MONACO TEMPORARY STREET CIRCUIT) 'To finish first, first you must finish.' The Monaco circuit is a highly daunting temporary street course, especially from the Driver View, as the barriers are FAR too close for comfort, and passing is virtually impossible for even expert drivers. If there is a problem with a car, there are extremely few places to safely pull aside, so all drivers must be constantly wary of damaged vehicles, especially slow or stationary cars around the many blind corners. The most significant key to simply finishing a race at Monaco is SURVIVAL, which means a slow, methodical, patient race. Aggressive drivers (like myself) would almost certainly end up dead - or at least driving an extremely beat-up vehicle - driving the Monaco circuit for real!!! For a comparison, the Surfer's Paradise circuit in Newman-Haas Racing is a sweet dream compared to the Monaco circuit!!!!! The circuit is extremely narrow, to the point that if a car bangs a barrier, it will almost certainly ricochet into the opposite barrier (if not into a nearby vehicle). While driving this circuit, players may want to have "I Will Survive" playing on auto- repeat!!! Pit Straight: Not straight at all, the 'Pit Straight' fades to the right along its entire length. Near the end, the Pit Lane rejoins the main course from the right. Turn 1 (Sainte Devote): This is a tight right-hand semi-blind corner; heavy braking is required long before reaching Sainte Devote. To the left on entering this corner is one of the few areas to pull off the course if there is a problem. Overshooting the corner results in smashing the front wing against the unmoving barrier. The uphill portion of the course begins here. Straightaway (Beau Rivage): Not really straight with its multi-direction fades, the circuit climbs steeply uphill here. Because of the fades, this is actually NOT a passing zone; you may think you have enough room to pass a slower car and actually pull up alongside it, but then you and the slower vehicle will end up bumping each other and/or a barrier because of a fade. Three-wide racing is definitely NOT an option here!!!!! Turn 2 (Massanet): This is a sweeping decreasing-radius left- hand blind corner requiring moderate or heavy braking on entry and light braking (or coasting) as you continue through the turn. If you come in too fast, the corner workers will be scraping the right side of your car off the barrier at the end of the race; if you take the corner too tightly, the same will happen for the left side of the car. The exit of Massanet is the highest elevation of the circuitS which has only just begun, even if it IS 'all downhill' from here!!! Turn 3 (Casino): Moderate braking will be needed for the right-hand Casino. This corner almost immediately follows Massanet, and begins the long downward trajectory of the course. This corner is actually wider than most, to the extent that a car in trouble may be parked along the barrier on the outside of the corner. Be careful not to scrape the left-side barrier while exiting Turn 3; similarly, do not overcompensate and scrape the right-side barrier at the apex of Casino. Turn 4 (Mirabeau): Following a medium-length downhill straightaway, heavy braking is needed for this right-hand blind 'J' turn. If you miss the braking zone, your front end will be crushed up against yet another barrier. This corner continues the course's downhill slope, which adds to the difficulty of the turn. Turn 5 (Great Curve): Following an extremely short straightaway, this left-hand hairpin is one of the slowest in all of F1 racing (even 40MPH is a dangerous speed here). If you have excellent braking ability, you can actually PASS (a rarity!!!) by taking the tight inside line; otherwise, it would be best to drive through the Great Curve single-file. If there is traffic ahead, it may simply be best to fall in line, as two-wide cornering here is extremely difficult to do without damaging the car. Turns 6 and 7 (Portier): This pair of right-hand corners form a 'U' shape, but neither can be taken at any respectable speed. Between these two corners is a pull-off area on the left, with another to the left on exiting the 'U' formation. Turn 7 is the slowest of the two corners, and is the most difficult in terms of the almost-nonexistent view of the track. Accelerating too soon out of Turn 7 means banging the left side of the car against yet another immovable barrier. Do not let the beautiful view of the water distract you from the race. The circuit is a little bumpy exiting Portier, especially if you stay tight to the inside of the corner on exit. Straightaway (The Tunnel): This 'straightaway' is actually a very long right-hand fade in a semi-tunnel (the left side provides a view of the water). However, even on a sunny day, visibility here is poor due to the sun being at a 'wrong' angle compared to the circuit, and this is made even worse should you be following a car with a malfunctioning or expired engine. Start braking shortly after entering back into the sunlight (assuming Dry Weather is active) for the chicane. Chicane (Nouveau Chicane): The course narrows as you come around the chicane, but then 'widens' back to 'normal' at the exit. Fortunately, F1 2001 has removed the barrier on the inside of the chicane which made this a treacherous configuration in F1 2000. Turn 8 (Tobacco): This left-hand corner is best taken with moderate braking. Turns 9-12 (Swimming Pool): This is essentially a double chicane around the swimming pool in the classic 'bus stop' configuration. Turns 9 and 10 form a tight left-right combination, for which moderate braking is required, although little or no braking can be used if you roll straight over the rumble strips with a solid racing line and no encumbering traffic. After an extremely brief straightaway, Turns 11 and 12 form the opposite configuration (right-left), but are even tighter and require moderate braking at best. This opens out onto a short straightaway where you MIGHT be able to pass ONE car. Turns 13 and 14 (La Rascasse): This is a tight left-right chicane requiring moderate braking for Turn 13 and heavy braking for Turn 14. Even worse, Turn 14 is a 'J' turn, so the racing line is also very important here. The Pit Lane is to the right at the exit of this chicane. Turns 15 and 16 (Anthony Hoges): A tight right-left chicane, these are the final corners of the Monaco circuit. The course narrows here through the chicane, then 'widens' to 'normal' for the Pit Straight. Pit Entry: The entrance to the Pit Lane is to the right immediately after clearing La Rascasse. Given that La Rascasse is a blind corner, on every lap, expect a slower car here headed for the pits. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF CANADA (CIRCUIT GILLES-VILLENEUVE) This incredible circuit is built on an island, accessible to spectators only via subway. Much of the course runs along the southern and northern shores of the island. This course is also unusual in that the paddock area is to the outside of the course (as at Imola), along the northern shore of the island. The long, sweeping straightaways provide for excellent top-end speed - a much-welcome change from the slow, tight corners and the many unforgiving barriers of the streets of Monaco (the previous race circuit in Championship Mode) - but there are several tight corners here to challenge both drivers and cars. Mind the Casino Hairpin (Turn 10), the westernmost corner of the course. Also tricky is the Senna Curve, as it immediately follows the first corner of the race. F1 2002 presents the old circuit configuration; the new configuration is a bit shorter at Casino Hairpin (to allow for more recovery room, if needed), and has Pit Exit empty out at the midpont of Senna Curve. Pit Straight: This follows the final chicane of the circuit. As the Pit Lane rejoins the main course from the left, the Pit Straight fades to the right, setting up Turn 1. If you were successful in flying through the final chicane at top speed without needing to navigate traffic, you will likely be pushing 200MPH at the Start/Finish Line. Turn 1 (Senna Curve): This left-hand corner will require moderate braking, and immediately flows into the Senna Curve. There is a patch of extra pavement on the right before entering Turn 1, but it is set too far back to be useful in attempting to gain a better racing line. Turn 2 (Island Hairpin): This is a right-hand hairpin corner requiring heavy or severe braking. It is very easy to run too wide here, slipping off into the grass. Likewise, it is rather easy to overcompensate and cut the corner, which can cause the car to spin if taken too fast. Extreme caution is required here if racing in wet conditions, as the severity of Island hairpin can itself cause the car to slide. Perhaps the best tactic is to enter Turn 1 from the extreme right of the pavement, and brake smoothly all the way through to just beyond the apex of Senna Curve before accelerating again. Beware the barrier to the left on exit. A moderate straightaway follows the Senna Curve, so acceleration from the exit is important. Turns 3 and 4: This right-left chicane can provide a good passing zone. Turn 3 is tight and semi-blind, but passing on braking is an option for those who know the chicane well. Turn 4 is an easier corner, allowing good acceleration on exit, but it is still easy to overshoot the exit of the chicane and bang the right side of the car against the nearby barrier. Expert drivers MIGHT be able to blast through this chicane at full acceleration by making judicious use of the rumble strips. This chicane begins the segment of the circuit closely bounded by barriers. Turn 5: This sweeping right-hand corner can be taken at full speed, unless you are coping with traffic. Be careful not to hug the apex too tightly, or your right-side tires will be on the grass here. Turn 6: Finally coming out of the section of Monacoesquely- close barriers, this left-hand corner will require moderate braking, or you will be flying through the grass toward the spectators in Grandstand 33. This leads out to a very brief straightaway. Turn 7 (Concorde): Following a very short straightaway, Turn 7 is a light-braking right-hand corner. On the outside of Turn 7 is a short, steep hillside with a barrier, so DO NOT run wide entering the corner, as it is possible to send the vehicle airborne!!! It is easy to run wide on exit and slip off the course and into the barrier on the left, so be careful. Straightaway: The course runs along the southern shore of the island here. Unfortunately, the extremely tall barrier prevents much of a view, which actually forces your eyes to be transfixed on the road and any other cars ahead. Once you pass underneath the pedestrian bridge, begin braking for the upcoming chicane. Turns 8 and 9: This right-left chicane is similar to Turns 6 and 7 in that overrunning the chicane leaves you driving through the sand directly toward another grandstand full of spectators. Moderate braking will be needed to safely enter the chicane's tight right-hand corner. The second corner of the chicane is a gentler left-hand turn, but you might still run off the pavement on exit and grind the right side of the car against the barrier, or roll up on the rumble strips on the inside of the corner and lose control of the car. Accelerate strongly out of the chicane to set up passing possibilities along the following straightaway and into Casino Hairpin. Straightaway: About two-thirds of the way along, the course fades to the left. Begin braking early for Casino Hairpin unless you really want to beach the car in the kitty litter; to begin braking after passing underneath the second pedestrian bridge is almost certainly too late for this braking zone. Turn 10 (Casino Hairpin): This is a tight right-hand hairpin requiring heavy or even severe braking, depending on when you begin braking for the corner. Somehow, this corner seems to be longer than it really is, so be judicious with the accelerator until you see clear, straight track ahead. Straightaway: On exiting Turn 10, the course fades to the right, then back to the left. However, no braking is required here. Turn 11: Officially marked on course maps as a corner, the course actually only fades to the right here, thus no braking is required. You should be fairly high up in the gearbox by the time you reach Turn 11. Straightaway (Casino Straight): The Casino Straight (named for the casino in the middle of the island) runs parallel to the northern shore of the island on which the course is built; there is not much of a view to the left, but it is not very interesting anyhow (especially when compared to Albert Park Lake in Melbourne). This is by far the longest straightaway of the entire course, so much of the time spent here will be in your car's top gear, quite likely achieving speeds over 200MPH. The Casino Straight leads to the final (right-left) chicane of the course, as well as the entry for Pit Lane. if you can spot it through the trees, the Casino de Montreal is the grayish complex off the course to the right as you drive between the final two pedestrian bridges. Turns 12 and 13: This is a right-left chicane which can be cleared (without traffic) with light or moderate braking. The exit of Turn 13 has a wide odd-colored lane of concrete to allow for some swing-out; nonetheless, be careful not to bump the barrier. The exit of the chicane flows onto the Pit Straight. The Pit Lane entry runs straight ahead in line with the Casino Straight, so cars slowing on the left are likely heading in for servicing, and may block your optimal racing line if you are continuing on-course. Pit Entry: As you enter the final (right-left) chicane, the Pit Entry runs straight ahead. Once clear of the main course, there is very little room for deceleration before the Pit Lane's own tight right-left chicane, so it is very important to slow down on Casino Straight before reaching the Pit Entry. Keep as far to the left as possible when slowing on Casino Straight, allowing other cars to keep to the right as they prepare for the final chicane. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF FRANCE (NEVERS MAGNY-COURS) The Magny-Cours circuit is characterized by long, sweeping straightaways, and fairly quick corners. The Adelaide hairpin will almost definitely cause trouble, especially for aggressive drivers, and is one of the slowest corners in modern F1 racing. This is a very fun course to drive (admittedly a very subjective statement), but its layout can produce problems from the standpoint of hearing other cars: Three of its main straightaways are almost exactly parallel to each other with little distance and no large obstacles between them, sometimes making it difficult to determine where other cars are truly located around you as you try to anticipate where the next group of traffic that you will need to navigate is located; listen attentively to the team radio for useful traffic information. The circuit also has extremely wide areas along most of the main course for a car to pull aside should a major malfunction arise. Unfortunately, F1 2002 places the Start/Finish Line well down Pit Straight, whereas the real-world Start/Finish Like is at the exit of High School. This is the circuit where Michael Schumacher won the 2002 Drivers' Championship. Pit Straight: Following the tight High School chicane, strong acceleration through the Pit Straight creates good passing chances through Great Curve and into Estoril. However, the tightness of the High School chicane and the incredibly close proximity of the Pit Lane barrier requires immense caution and headache-causing concentration as you come onto the Pit Straight. The Start/Finish Line is about halfway down the Pit Straight; the Pit Lane rejoins the course from the left at this point. Turn 1 (Great Curve): In accordance with its name, this is a sweeping left-hand corner which can be taken flat-out unless encumbered by a lot of traffic. Turn 2 (Estoril): Either light or moderate braking will be needed for entering the VERY long right-hand 180-degree Estoril; in either case, you will almost certainly be tapping the brakes repeatedly through Estoril. It is quite easy to roll the right-side tires off onto the grass, and it is just as easy to slip off onto the grass on the outside of Estoril - both can easily occur, whether navigating traffic or driving alone. Straightaway (Golf): The Golf Straight if by far the longest of the course and includes several fades to the right. Turn 3 (Adelaide): The right-hand Adelaide hairpin is EXTREMELY tight. The key here is to brake EARLY, as you will be downshifting from your top gear to your lowest gear rapidly; if you begin braking too late, you will be off in the grass. If you accelerate too soon out of Adelaide, you will be rolling through the kitty litter and losing valuable track position. Even 30MPH is likely to be too fast here. Straightaway: Acceleration out of Adelaide is important for passing other cars here. There are a few fades in the course here. Turns 4 and 5 (Nurburgring): This is a right-left chicane which will require light braking. It is possible to fly through Nurburgring without braking by making use of the bright-green extension on the inside of Turn 5; however, this extension is significantly shorter than it was in F1 Championship Season 2000. Turn 6 (180 Degrees): This is quite true - the official name of this corner is '180 Degrees' according to the official Web site of Magny-Cours. This is a wide left-hand hairpin nestled well within the Estoril hairpin. Running too wide here will put you out in the sand; running too close to the apex could put you up on the rumble strips and force you to lose control. While this corner is not as slow as the Adelaide hairpin, you really do not want to try pushing very much faster here. Straightaway: The third of the three parallel-running straightaways, this 'straightaway' has several fades before the Imola chicane. Turns 7 and 8 (Imola): This right-left chicane should require light braking, except for cars with a flawless racing line. The bright-green extension on the inside of Turn 8 is longer than in F1 Championship Season 2000, which could well be used for top-speed navigation of the chicane. A short straightaway out of Imola sets up the Water Castle curve. Turn 9 (Water Castle): Somewhere between a standard 'J' turn and a hairpin, this is an increasing-radius right-hand corner leading into the final straightaway of the circuit. Turns 10 and 11 (High School): There is a false line of pavement to the right as you near the official chicane; this false pavement runs directly up to an immovable barrier (I believe this is the Pit Entry for other forms of racing at the circuit). The official chicane requires moderate braking on entering, and allows for a VERY short burst of acceleration on exit. If you completely miss this chicane, you will blast through the sand trap and break the front end on a perpendicular barrier blocking any direct access to Pit Lane. Turn 12 (High School): On entry, the Pit Lane begins to the left. The official corner is a TIGHT right-hand turn which requires moderate or even heavy braking; wheel lock is very much a possibility here, especially in wet conditions. If you miss the corner, you will blast through the all-too-brief sand trap and ram directly against a barrier and bounce backward into any cars behind you. Speed is an extreme concern here; it is virtually impossible to go too slow, but going too fast will definitely result in a crash (with great possibility of bouncing into follow-up crashes with other cars, or with another nearby barrier). Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the left at the entry of Turn 12. The Pit Lane has its own sharp right-hand turn almost immediately, so it is best to begin slowing (or rather, barely accelerating) as you leave the High School chicane. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF GREAT BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) Built on an airport site which is contracted to host the Grand Prix of Great Britain until at least 2010, this historic course features wide run-off areas in most places. The final segment of the circuit is also very similar to - but also vastly different from - The Stadium at Hockenheim. Pit Straight: The Start/Finish Line is directly at the beginning of the Pit Straight. There is no room for error on the right side of the track, as the Pit Lane barrier is directly against the pavement. Turn 1 (Copse): This is a moderate right-hand corner which can be taken at full speed, but be careful to not run off the course at the exit of the turn. The best racing line is to tightly hug the apex, but the Pit Lane barrier is right there against the pavement, so it is imperative to keep the right- side tires from rubbing the barrier. Turn 1 exits onto a long straightaway. Straightaway: The Pit Lane rejoins the main course from the right about 1/3 of the way along the straight. Turns 2-5 (Bechetts): This is a set of left-right-left-right 'S' curves. Turns 2 through 4 can be taken at full speed or with very quick tapping of the brakes, but Turn 5 requires moderate braking to keep to the pavement. Turn 6 (Chapel): This is a gentle left-hand corner which can be taken at full speed. This opens onto Hangar Straight. Straightaway (Hangar Straight): At 738.28m, this is by far the longest straightaway of the course. Powerful acceleration out of Turn 5 (the final corner of Bechetts) can lead to good passing opportunities along Hangar Straight and/or entering the almost-nonexistent braking zone for Turn 7 (Stowe). Turn 7 (Stowe): Light braking or a quick lift off the accelerator will be required here (unless blocked by traffic) in order to remain on the pavement. This is a tricky, sweeping, right-hand corner followed immediately by a left- hand semi-corner. This is the southernmost point of the course. Straightaway (Vale): If you can somehow successfully navigate Stowe without braking or lifting, then you should be able to continue passing others fairly easily along Vale, especially if they had to brake heavily in Stowe. Turns 8 and 9 (Club): There is a stretch of pavement to the left, but that is NOT the official course; in fact, it has a tall barrier blocking a clear path for those who wish to accumulate a Stop-Go Penalty. The official corner is a tight left-hand turn followed by the increasing-radius right-hand Turn 9, leading out onto another long straightaway (Abbey Straight). Turns 10 and 11 (Abbey): Like the previous set of corners, there is another stretch of pavement to the left which is not part of the official course; as before, this patch of pavement is blocked by a tall barrier, and taking this route will accumulate a Stop-Go Penalty. The official Turn 10 is a tight left-hand corner, but not as tight as Turn 8. This is immediately followed by a Turn 11, a right-hand corner which can be cleared with little or no braking depending on how much you slowed entering Abbey. Be careful not to slip off the course and rub the nearby barrier on exiting Abbey. Straightaway (Farm Straight): With good acceleration out of Abbey, good passing opportunities can be made here. Turns 12-16: This final segment of the circuit is very similar to The Stadium at Hockenheim. However, these similar segments cannot be approached in the same manner. Turn 12 (Bridge): Immediately after passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, you will enter a complex similar to The Stadium at Hokkenheim. This is a right-hand corner which can likely be taken at full speed. Turn 13 (Priory): This left-hand corner will require moderate braking. Turn 14 (Brooklands): Another left-hand corner, this one requires heavy braking. There is a small sand trap for those who miss the braking zone. Turn 15 (Luffield): This set of right-hand corners essentially forms a 'U' shape, and requires moderate or severe braking to avoid sliding off into the kitty litter. The exit of Luffield can be taken flat-out all the way to Turn 5. The entry to Pit Lane is on the right shortly leaving Luffield. Turn 16 (Woodcote): Barely a corner but more than a fade, the course eases to the right here. The right-side barrier begins abruptly here (be careful not to hit it). Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right between Luffield and Woodcote. The new Pit Lane has a gentle right-hand swing, so you can come into Pit Lane at top speed and have plenty of room to slow. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF GERMANY (HOCKENHEIM) Surrounded by multitudes of trees which make much of the circuit rather dark in wet races, this is definite one of the fastest circuits used for F1 racing. If not for the Jim Clark, Brems, and Ayrton Senna chicanes, cars would be flying around the course in top gear all the way from the North Curve (Turn 1) to the entry of the Stadium (Turn 10). Except for the right side of the Pit Straight, there is more than enough room to pull well off the pavement should a car have a serious problem on any part of the circuit. It is truly interesting that the German Grand Prix immediately follows the British Grand Prix, due to The Stadium here at Hockenheim and its unnamed similar segment at Silverstone. Pit Straight: This is an extremely short straightaway compared to the rest of the course. Turn 1 (North Curve): This right-hand corner will require moderate braking to keep out of the expansive kitty litter. The Pit Lane rejoins the course from the right at the exit of North Curve. Acceleration out of North Curve is of key importance due to the length of the ensuing straightaway. Straightaway: Immensely lengthy and lined with trees, speed is of the utmost importance here. The entire straightaway is an extremely gentle fade to the right. Drift to the left when you reach the grandstands. Turns 2 and 3 (Jim Clark Chicane): A nasty barrier blocks any shortcutting attempts of this right-left chicane. Moderate or heavy braking will be required for Turn 2 (or light braking if not in traffic and using a FLAWLESS racing line which makes judicious use of the rumble strips), but full acceleration can be taken leading out of the chicane. There is a wide patch of pavement on the inside of Turn 2, but shortcutting here results in a Stop-Go Penalty. Straightaway: Yet another long, sweeping straightaway which fades calmly to the right, so powerful acceleration out of the Jim Clark Chicane is imperative to keep from getting passed. Drift to the left before entering the Brems Chicane, and begin braking much earlier than for the Jim Clark Chicane. Turns 4 and 5 (Brems Chicane): The original course configuration (used in older F1 racing games) did not have a chicane here, and the original pavement remains (without a barrier). However, the official course suddenly cuts tightly to the right and then cuts tightly to the left to rejoin the old pavement. Moderate braking will be needed for Turn 4, and light braking for Turn 5. This right-left chicane has a continual downhill slope, adding to the difficulty of the chicane. Even with the Flags option disabled, the angle of the old pavement to the official chicane is such that it is impossible to blast through this segment at top speed without spinning the car through the kitty litter. Turn 6 (East Curve): This is a very wide right-hand corner which can be taken at top speed. Strong acceleration out of Brems is key to assist in passing here. Straightaway: This is yet another long straightaway, but without any fades. Drift to the right for the Ayrton Senna Chicane. Turns 7-9 (Ayrton Senna Chicane): DO NOT follow the old course pavement directly ahead unless you really WANT to collide with the brand-new barrier. The official course turns to the left, cuts to the right, and eases left again. It is actually possible to speed into Turn 7 at top speed, lift off the throttle through Turn 8, and accelerate quickly out of the chicane - but this is certainly NOT recommended. Straightaway: The final long straightaway of the course has extra pavement on the left - this could potentially be a place to pass large numbers of cars. This extra pavement begins shortly after the exit of the Ayrton Senna Chicane, and ends at the entry of the Stadium; thus, if you are on this 'extra' pavement entering the Stadium, you will have a better racing line for Turn 10, allowing you to navigate the corner with less. Turns 10-13 (The Stadium): This is similar to the final segment of the Silverstone circuit. However, do not expect to drive The Stadium the same way you would the final segment at Silverstone. Turn 10 (Entrance to the Stadium: Agip Curve): Light braking may be required here, but you should be able to pass through the Agip Curve without any braking at all (especially if your racing line began with the 'extra' pavement on the left before the Stadium). A short straightaway follows. Turn 11 (Continuing through the Stadium: Sachscurve): This is a left-hand wide hairpin turn, requiring moderate braking. Be careful not to end up in the grass, either entering or exiting the corner. Straightaway (Continuing through the Stadium): This short straightaway has a fade to the left, followed by a fade to the right. Turns 12 and 13 (Exiting the Stadium: Opel): The first right-hand corner is somewhat tight, and heavy braking will be required here; the old course rejoins the current course from the left on exit, so if you run wide in this corner, you can likely recover here using the old pavement. The final corner of the circuit is a right-hand turn which will require moderate braking. The Pit Lane entry is to the right just before the official Turn 13. Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right at the entry of Turn 13 (the final corner of the Stadium). ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF HUNGARY (HUNGARORING) The Hungaroring circuit has wide run-off areas, which can be quite important, especially for Turn 1. It is imperative to qualify near the top of the grid and be (one of) the first through this corner, as traffic backs up tremendously here at the start of a race - moreso than at most other circuits due to the extremely nasty configuration of the first turn. Pit Straight: Like Interlagos, Pit Straight is the highest elevation on the course and a very long straightaway. Actually, the highest elevation is at the very end of the Pit Straight, at the entrance of Turn 1, due to the continual uphill slope. Turn 1: It's all downhill from here, almost literally. This tight right-hand hairpin corner is downhill all the way through, making early braking a necessity; plus, you will certainly be tapping the brakes all the way through this important first turn. If you do overrun the corner, there is a huge sand trap for your inconvenience. However, if you roll up on the inside rumble strips, expect your car to spin violently and collide with anything nearby. Turns 2 and 3: After a short straightaway, Turn 2 is a left- hand 'J' turn requiring moderate braking. Turn 2 is quickly followed by Turn 3, a light-braking right-hand corner which must be taken at full throttle on exit to set up passing opportunities through Turn 3 and along the ensuing straightaway. Turn 4: This moderate left-hand corner may require light braking or may be taken flat-out. Plenty of kitty litter awaits those who overrun the corner. Turn 5: Moderate braking is necessary for this right-hand 'J' turn. Plenty of sand is available on both sides of the pavement here, just in case. Turns 6 and 7: The CPU is very touchy about this right-left chicane; virtually ANY short-cutting here results in a Stop- Go Penalty. There is plenty of sand here as well, just in case. Turn 6 is tight, requiring heavy braking. Turn 7 requires moderate braking, and beware the barrier on exit if you happen to swing out too wide. Turn 8: This moderate left-hand corner may require light braking, but may also be taken as a full speed passing zone if using rapid reflexes and a flawless racing line. Turn 9: Almost immediately following Turn 8, this right-hand corner definitely requires moderate braking to keep to the pavement. Accelerate strongly out of Turn 9 to set up good passing opportunities. Turn 10: An easy left-hand corner which can be taken at top speed, but only with a good racing line. This is a prime place to pass if sufficient acceleration was made out of Turn 9. Turn 11: Shortly following Turn 10, the right-hand Turn 11 requires moderate braking to stay out of the kitty litter on the outside of the corner. Turns 12 and 13: This is a right-left chicane for which the CPU is again very touchy concerning shortcutting. Turn 14: This is a narrow 'J' turn to the left. At first, there is plenty of sand to the outside for those who overrun the corner, but then a metal barrier rubs up against the pavement beginning about halfway around the corner, so DO NOT overrun the corner if you like having the right side of the car intact. The course begins its steep uphill trajectory here. A very short straightaway follows. Turn 15: At the entry of this final corner is the Pit Lane entry, so beware of slower cars on the right. The official corner itself is a tight, uphill, right-hand hairpin with little room for those who overrun the corner. Accelerate strongly (but not too early) out of this final corner to pass along the Pit Straight and put on a show for the spectators. Do not take this corner too tightly, or you will damage the right-side tires on the Pit Lane barrier. Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins at the entry of Turn 15 on the right; begin slowing (rather, do not accelerate much) at the end of Turn 14 (the left-hand 'J' turn). ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF BELGIUM (SPA-FRANCORCHAMPS) This is a well-storied course used for many forms of racing. The longest course used in the 2002 F1 season, the forest setting is rather scenic. This is also home to the famous Turn 1 - the La Source hairpin - which is deemed the slowest corner in all of F1 racing. As at Hungaroring, it is very important to be at the front of the grid on the first lap to safely navigate the first turn. Due to the forest setting, much of the circuit is perpetually shadowed, which is especially significant if racing in wet or overcast conditions. Pit Straight: Strong acceleration out of the Bus Stop chicane allows SOME room for passing here. Fortunately, the Start/Finish Line has been moved back away from La Source. The course also slopes downward here, all the way through La Source. Turn 1 (La Source): This is an incredibly tight right-hand hairpin. Fortunately, there is plenty of swing-out room and plenty of recovery space, both paved, which can provide a great passing opportunity by taking an extremely wide racing line. The downward slope of the course is not much here, but it does add to the difficulty of this hairpin turn. Brake lock-up and the resultant flat-spotting of the tires is quite easy to inadvertently accomplish here, especially in wet racing conditions, so caution is extremely important. If a car in front of you takes the wrong racing line, passing here can be easy if you can suddenly dart either to the outside or the inside of the turn. Passing can also occur here if you brake REALLY late. Straightaway (Eau Rouge): Immediately at the exit of La Source is where Pit Lane rejoins the main course, so try to keep away from the inside of the course here, especially since the barrier prevents cars exiting La Source to see cars exiting Pit Lane (and vice versa). To the right is the Pit Lane for the 24-hour races held at Spa-Francorchamps; take care not to smash into this concrete Pit Lane barrier, especially if you are too hard on the accelerator exiting La Source and force the car into a slide or a spin to the right. Immediately after passing the 'other' Pit Lane and entering Eau Rouge (Red Water), the straightaway has several fades during a semi-blind steep uphill climb into Turn 2. It is all too easy to misjudge the racing line and wind up out in the sand and the grass on either side of the pavement here, so memorization of this segment of the circuit is just as important as perfect timing in order to keep the car on the pavement. Until this corner can be taken flawlessly, it is best to keep to single-file driving through the fades. Turn 2 (Eau Rouge): This is an easy right-hand corner at the top of the steep uphill climb. The kitty litter on either side of the course fades away shortly after the corner. Straightaway (Kemmel): The course truly enters the forested area here, with trees lining both sides of the course and casting lengthy shadows which make this area of the circuit rather dark when racing in wet conditions. Cars can easily achieve speeds over 200MPH by the end of this straightaway. The end of Kemmel is where Mika Hakkinen made 'The Pass' on Michael Schumacher in the 2000 Grand Prix of Belgium. Turns 3-5 (Malmedy): This is a right-left-right combination of corners. Moderate or even heavy braking is necessary entering Malmedy (Turn 3), but little or no braking is needed for Turn 4. After an almost non-existent straightaway, light braking is needed for Turn 5 to keep from running into the nearby grandstand. The Malmedy complex has plenty of run-off room, comprised of both sand and grass, with minor short- cutting permitted by the CPU. Entering Malmedy, be sure not to keep going straight along another stretch of pavement (part of the old circuit), which leads to a barrier. Straightaway: Between Malmedy and Bruxelles (the French spelling of 'Brussels,' the capital of Belgium), the course takes a steep downward trajectory. This can be a good passing zone for those who did not need to use the brakes (much) leaving the Malmedy complex. Turn 6 (Bruxelles): The course continues downhill all the way through this right-hand hairpin, making heavy braking a necessity before the corner as well as light braking most of the way through Bruxelles, especially if the tires are rather worn. If any corner is to be overrun on a regular basis during the course of the race, this is it (due to the downhill slope), so the wide sandy recovery area may actually be a blessing in disguise. However, due to the slope of the hill, running up on the rumble strips on the inside of the turn may well result in a spin or other loss of control; if done 'correctly,' this may also result in launching the vehicle airborne. Turn 7: Shortly following Bruxelles, this left-hand corner requires moderate braking. Turn 8 and 9 (Pouhon): These two easy left-hand corners essentially form a wide 'U' shape, and require light or moderate braking. There is plenty of run-off room here, if needed, on both sides of the pavement. Turns 10 and 11 (Fagnes): This right-left complex will require moderate braking on entry, and possibly tapping the brakes through Turn 11 as well. Accelerate well out of Fagnes to pass one or two cars on the short straightaway which follows. Turn 12 (Stavelot): This is another right-hand corner, requiring light or moderate braking. It is highly important to accelerate STRONG out of Stavelot, as you won't be using the brakes again until the Bus Stop Chicane. Turn 13 (Blanchimont): This is a long, sweeping, left-hand corner which must be carried at top speed (from Stavelot) or else you WILL be passed by others. The trees here are pretty, but keep your eyes on the road, especially due to the shadows cast over the circuit. Turns 14-17 (Bus Stop Chicane): This is a tight left-right followed by a super-short straightaway and a tight right- left. The beginning of the chicane is at the top of a small rise, so the first two turns are blocked from view on approach (especially from Driver View) unless other cars are there to mark the course for you. Moderate braking should be used for both parts of the Bus Stop, but true experts can semi-easily fly through the Bus Stop at top speed without incurring a Stop-Go Penalty for shortcutting the chicane (but be prepared to save the car should the rumble strips cause you to lose control). Pit Entry: While the Bus Stop Chicane begins here with a tight left-hand corner, the Pit Lane continues straight ahead, with a quick right-left mini-chicane of its own. There is not much room in Pit Lane to slow down before reaching the Paddock, so slow on the main course, but keep to the right to allow cars remaining in the race to pass you on the left as they enter the Bus Stop Chicane. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF ITALY (MONZA) This historic high-speed track hosts a highly partial pro- Ferrari crowd - affectionately known as the 'tifosi.' Pit Straight: Strong acceleration out of the Curva Parabolica can create prime passing opportunities along the Pit Straight, the longest straightaway at Monza. The Pit Lane begins on the right shortly after exiting the Parabolica. Turns 1-3 (Rettifilio): The new chicane here is a tight right-left with a gentle right turn back into line with the original pavement. The chicane is blocked by a barrier, but the inside of Turn 1 has a paved 'extension' which may be of benefit. Even with Flags on, shortcutting the chicane TO THE RIGHT OF THE BARRIER can be done at top speed, thus lowering lap times; shortcutting to the left of the barrier results in a Stop-Go Penalty. Turn 4 (Biassono): This sweeping right-hand corner among the thick trees can be taken flat-out. To the left is a long, wide area of sand, but the corner is so extremely gentle that the sand should not be needed for any reason unless you blow an engine or severely puncture a tire. Turns 5 and 6 (Roggia): Despite the flatness of the Monza circuit, this chicane is extremely difficult to see on approach unless traffic is present to mark the pavement for you, so it is very easy to overrun the chicane. This is a very tight left-right chicane, so moderate or heavy braking is required; shortcutting through here at full throttle is possible by making use of the new, narrow, bright-green extensions on the inside of each corner, as the CPU us rather tolerant of shortcutting here (compared to previous incarnations of the game). There is a large sand trap for those who miss the chicane altogether. Turn 7 (First Lesmo): This right-hand corner requires moderate braking. There is a wide sand trap on the outside of the corner, just in case. Beware the barrier on the inside of the corner. About 150MPH is the maximum speed here, or you risk slipping off the course and into the kitty litter. If you shortcut the first two chicanes of the game, this will be the first time you absolutely need to use the brakes. Turn 8 (Second Lesmo): This right-hand corner is a little tighter than First Lesmo, and also has a significant area of kitty litter on the outside of the corner. Moderate braking will be needed here. Again, beware the barrier on the inside of the corner. Generally, about 140MPH is the maximum speed here to keep from sliding off the pavement. Straightaway/Turn 9 (Serraglio): This is really just a fade to the left, but the official course map lists this as a curve. Counting this as a fade, this marks about the halfway point on the longest straightaway of the Monza circuit. There is sufficient room to pull off the course here on either side if necessary, except when passing underneath the first bridge. The circuit is extremely bumpy between the two bridges. Turns 10-12 (Ascari): The Ascari chicane is more difficult than it seems. Turn 10 is a left-hand corner requiring at least light braking. This is followed immediately by a right-hand corner requiring moderate braking. Turn 12 can be taken at full acceleration if you slowed enough in Turn 11. Wide areas of grass and sand are available for those overruninng any part of the chicane. Still, unless encumbered by traffic, experts may be able to take Ascari at full throttle with a flawless racing line which makes use of the rumble strips as well as the bright-green 'extension' on the inside of Turn 10. Straightaway (Rettilineo Parabolica): This is the second- longest straightaway at Monza and a prime passing zone, especially with powerful acceleration out of Ascari. Turn 13 (Curva Parabolica): This final corner is a very-wide increasing-radius right-hand hairpin. Light or moderate braking is required on entry, but after about one-third of the way around the hairpin, stand on the accelerator all the way through to Rettifilio. The outside of the Curva Parabolica has an immense expanse of kitty litter, but this really should not be necessary unless you suddenly need to take evasive action to avoid someone else's accident. After the Lesmo corners, the Curva Parabolica is the third and final place where braking is a definite MUST. Pit Entry: Shortly after exiting the Curva Parabolica, the Pit Lane begins on the right. This is perhaps the shortest Pit Lane in all of F1; there is virtually NO room for deceleration once leaving the main course, so cars going in for servicing will begin slowing at the exit of the Curva Parabolica. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF PORTUGAL (ESTORIL) In some ways, Estoril is reminiscent of the Catalunya circuit in Spain. Those familiar with both race venues will perhaps begin to anticipate the Catalunya circuit's upcoming corners... and get themselves into trouble here at Estoril. Turn 1: This is a gentle right-hand corner which can be taken with only moderate braking at most. Turn 2: Shortly after Turn 1, this long, extended, sweeping right-hand corner can be taken at full acceleration. Those who can maintain a good amount of speed without slipping off the pavement can easily make passes on the outside line here. Turn 3: Almost immediately following Turn 2, this right-hand corner requires moderate braking on entry and very little throttle usage throughout. Those who can maintain a good amount of speed without slipping off the pavement can easily make passes on the outside line here. Turn 4 (VIP Curve): This long, extended left-hand corner requires moderate braking on entry and very little throttle usage throughout. Those who can maintain a good amount of speed without slipping off the pavement can easily make passes on the outside line here. Straightaway: Following Turn 4 is a long, extended 'straightaway' with a dogleg to the right about halfway along its length. Slower cars tend to keep to the left at the dogleg, allowing for easy passing. Turn 5 (Interior Parabolica): At the end of the long 'straightaway,' the circuit turns semi-sharply to the left in a J-turn. Moderate or heavy braking will be required here. This is an excellent place to pass on corner entry due to late heavy braking. Turn 6 (Orelina): After a medium-length straightaway, the circuit turns somewhat gently to the right. Light braking should be all that is required here to keep the car from sliding off the pavement. Turn 7: Shortly after Turn 6, the pavement diverges, with one branch heading straight ahead and up a steep hill, and the second branch curving to the right. The F1 venue turns to the right here, with only light braking needed to keep to the pavement. Turns 8 (Gancho) and 9: This is the most difficult section of the Estoril circuit. Shortly after Turn 7, the circuit makes a hard turn to the left up a steep incline, then - at the top of the incline - makes a semi-hard J-turn to the right. The fact that there is really no straightaway connecting Turn 8 with Turn 9 makes the corners themselves even harder than they at first appear, which makes FLAWLESS knowledge of the circuit key to success here. Heavy braking is required for Turn 8, with moderate braking needed for Turn 9. Turns 10 and 11: Immediately following Turn 9, the circuit turns gently to the right and then back to the left. No braking should be required here unless blocked by traffic. Turn 12 (Parabolica): This final corner is a long, sweeping corner with no braking needed. Flat-out acceleration throughout Turn 12 is key to passing along Pit Straight and entering Turn 1. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF EUROPE (NURBURGRING) From a driving standpoint, the hilly Nurburgring circuit is very much characterized by its tight corners, some of which are semi-blind turns. Tire wear is a definite issue in long races here, especially in wet conditions. Even more important, however, is braking early for almost every corner; perhaps only the narrow streets of Monaco require more braking than does the Nurburgring circuit. Unfortunately, F1 2002 presents the OLD circuit configuration; the new configuration severely changes the initial corners of the circuit so that the course briefly doubles back behind the Paddock area. Pit Straight: This straightaway is fairly long, but the Start/Finish Line is near the exit of the final corner. The Pit Lane rejoins the course near the end of the Pit Straight, just before the Castrol S. Turns 1 and 2 (Castrol S): Moderate braking is required before entering this right-left 'S' curve. It is quite easy to miss seeing the entry to the Castrol S unless traffic is present to mark the corner for you. Until you know the course really well, expect to find yourself driving straight ahead into the recovery area. Turn 2 is actually somewhat of a double-apex left-hand corner, so do not go too wide initially on exit. Also, be careful not to drive too wide exiting the Castrol S. Caution must be taken here on the first lap of a race, as the traffic truly bunches up here. Turn 3: Light braking or a quick lift of the accelerator will be necessary for this left-hand corner. However, hard braking will be required for the Ford Curve ahead. Beginning at the top of Turn 3, the course moves downhill. Turn 4 (Ford Curve): This is a hard right-hand corner, practically a 'J' curve. The course continues its downhill slope here, which significantly adds to the difficulty of the turn, especially in wet condditions. Braking too late here means a trip through the kitty litter, while riding up on the inside rumble strips usually means losing control of the car. This is definitely NOT a place to pass unless absolutely necessary. Straightaway: The course fades to the left here. If you can accelerate well out of the Ford Curve, you should be able to pass several cars here as you continue downhill. Turn 5 (Dunlop Curve): Severe braking for this hairpin is a must, unless you really want to drive through the sand. Again, rolling up on the rumble strips on the inside of the curve may cause you to lose control of the car; however, I have several times induced slight wheelspin of the right-side tires on the rumble strip, which helped to swing the car around the corner just a little faster. The course continues gently uphill here toward the Audi S. Turns 6 and 7 (Audi S): Entering the left-right Audi S, the uphill slope of the course increases, making it very difficult to see the course more than a few feet ahead. The exit of Turn 6 is the crest of this hill. Unless traffic blocks your racing line, the entire Audi S section can be taken at top speed if you have a good racing line, so good acceleration out of the Dunlop Curve will be very beneficial for passing entering Turn 6 and/or exiting Turn 7. Turn 8 (RTL Curve): With the rise in the course entering the left-hand RTL Curve, this appears to be identical to Turn 6 on approach. However, you MUST use moderate braking entering the RTL Curve, or you will definitely be off in the grass on the outside of the curve. After a short straightaway, this corner is followed by the gentler BIT Curve. Turn 9 (BIT Curve): This right-hand curve will require light or moderate braking, depending on how much acceleration was used in the brief straightaway following the RTL Curve. Turn 10 (Bilstein-Bogen): This is a gentle right-hand semi- corner which can be taken at full throttle. From here to the Veedal S, the course makes its final and steepest upward slope. Turns 11 and 12 (Veedal S): This is an extremely tight left- right made even worse for the drivers by its placement at the very crest of the hill. For those who overshoot the chicane, there is a newly-added barrier to collect you and your car. Turn 13 (Coca-Cola Curve): A 'J' turn to the right, moderate braking is required here to keep from sliding off the course. The entry of the Coca-Cola Curve is also where the Pit Lane begins, so cars may be slowing on approach to go to Pit Lane for servicing. This is the final corner of the circuit. Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins at the entry of the final corner. It is extremely important to slow down before entering Pit Lane; if you come in too fast, you will certainly damage the front of the car on the barrier. Keep tight to the right for Pit Entry, to allow those continuing the race to have the prime racing line to the left of the pavement. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF PACIFIC (AIDA) Aida is a fun and fairly quick circuit. There are many high- speed areas, tempered with a few J-turns to slow the cars. Fortunately, there are NO CHICANES at Aida, which is absolutely great for aggressive drivers. Turn 1: After a moderate-length Pit Straight, Turn 1 is a right-hand J-turn requiring moderate braking and gentle throttle control throughout. While passing on the outside line is indeed possible here, it is not suggested. Turn 2: Shortly after Turn 1, this is a gentle left-hand corner which can generally be taken at full acceleration with a pristine racing line making use of the rumble strips (especially on corner exit)... unless encumbered by traffic. Straightaway: This 'straightaway' has three fades - left- right-left - which can essentially be straightlined; those with experience in rally racing will already have this essential time-shaving skill in their arsenal of racing tactics. Turn 3: Immediately after the final fade of the preceding 'straightaway,' the circuit makes a right-hand bend here as the venue makes a slow rise. This corner requires moderate braking. Note that the crest comes after corner exit, so while speed out of the corner is important, it is quite possible that there will be an incident jut over the rise - therefore, drivers must be prepared to quickly take evasive action coming over the crest. Turn 4: After a second mini-crest comes the right-hand Turn 4. Moderate braking is required here as is a tight racing line along the apex for this J-turn. Turns 5 and 6: Almost immediately after Turn 4 comes a pair of left-hand corners. These are fairly gentle corners requiring only light braking, but the straightaway connecting Turn 5 and Turn 6 is simply too long to permit treating this section like one elongated hairpin corner. Slow cars tend to REALLY slow for the Turns 4-5-6 complex, so powering out of the corners and braking heavily and late entering the corners will help with passing in this section. Turns 7 and 8: This section begins just beyond the pedestrian bridge over the raceway. This is a set of left-right J- turns, each requiring moderate braking. Again, slow cars tend to be REALLY slow here, so powering out of the corners and braking heavily and late entering the corners will help with passing in this section. Turns 9 and 10: This is a pair of VERY gentle right-hand corners requiring NO braking whatsoever, so long as the driver can keep a good racing line. These corners essentially form one wide sweeping elongated hairpin turn to the right. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF JAPAN (SUZUKA) This world-famous circuit in figure-eight style is used for many forms of auto and motorcycle racing; as such, those who have played other racing games (such as Moto GP World Tour or Le Mans 24 Hours) may already have some familiarity with the Suzuka circuit. One of the most famous sights of the 'circuit' is the large Ferris Wheel on the left behind the grandstands as cars pass along the Pit Straight. Suzuka was once the official test circuit for Honda, with the figure- eight configuration ensuring that there were a near-equal number of both left-hand and right-hand turns; similarly, the circuit was purposely designed to include as many types of corners and situations as possible, which makes the Suzuka circuit more technically difficult than it might at first appear to Suzuka novices. Pit Straight: Good speeds can be achieved here with strong acceleration out of the chicane. The Pit Lane rejoins the course from the right near the end of the Pit Straight. Turn 1: This right-hand (almost double-apex) hairpin requires moderate braking on approach, and you will likely be tapping the brakes through the hairpin itself. This begins an uphill climb, and it is difficult to see the left side of the pavement on exit, so be careful not to run too wide and end up out in the sand. There is really no reason to overrun the hairpin on entry, as the corner is quite easily identifiable. Turns 2-5 (S Curves): This is by far the hardest section of the course - tight left-right-left-right corners. The first of the 'S' curves can likely be taken at full speed, with light or moderate braking for Turn 3. Turn 4 can be taken either flat-out (not suggested) or with light braking. No matter what, slam HARD on the brakes for Turn 5, the tightest corner of the 'S' section. This entire segment of the course continues the uphill climb, making Turn 5 particularly more difficult. There is ample recovery room on either side of the course through the uphill 'S' section. The 'S' section is a good place to pass slower cars, if you have enough confidence in your brakes to pass during corner entry. No matter what, you will NOT be surviving the 'S' curves unless you use the brakes generously - or use only second or third gear. Turn 6 (Dunlop Curve): This sweeping left-hand corner is the crest of the initial uphill segment of the course. However, it is best to brake lightly or at least lift off the accelerator to keep from sliding out into the grass and sand on the right side of the long corner. Turn 7 (Degner): Here, the course turns to the right in anticipation of the figure-eight pattern. Light braking will likely be required, but it is possible to speed through here without braking. To the outside of the course is a wide expanse of grass and sand in case you overrun the corner. Turn 8 (Degner): The final right-hand corner before passing underneath the bridge, this turn is tighter than the previous corner, thus moderate or heavy braking and a steady racing line will be required here. This is also another prime passing zone. Take care not to overrun Turn 8, or your front-left tire will be damaged. Straightaway: Accelerate strongly out of Degner and you may be able to pass one or two cars as you race underneath the bridge. The course fades to the right here before reaching the tight Hairpin. The fade is a good place to begin braking for Hairpin. Turn 9 (Hairpin): This is a tight left-hand hairpin which begins the next uphill segment of the Suzuka circuit. It is possible to shortcut a little here, but the grass combined with the angle of the hill here will really slow you down and perhaps cause you to spin and/or slide, especially in wet conditions. Be careful not to accelerate too soon, or you will be out in the grass. There is a sizeable patch of kitty litter for those who miss the hairpin completely or lock the wheels. Turn 10: Continuing the uphill run, the course here makes a wide sweep to the right. Any braking here means losing track positions. Turns 11 and 12 (Spoon): This is a tricky pair of left-hand corners, in a decreasing-radius 'U' formation. The first corner is fairly standard, requiring little braking. However, Turn 12 is both tighter AND slopes downhill, so judicious usage of brakes and a pristine racing line are both important here, especially if attempting to pass a slower vehicle. If you repeatedly misjudge any single corner at Suzuka, it will be Turn 12; fortunately, there is plenty of recovery room on both sides of the pavement here. However, do not roll up on the rumble strips or the grass on the inside of Turn 12, as that will almost certainly cause you to lose control and likely spin. Straightaway: Power out of Spoon and rocket down the straightaway, passing multiple cars. After you cross the bridge, start thinking about the chicane. (If you feel a bit cocky, try speeding through the Pit Lane for the support races, located on the right as you start uphill again - this Pit Lane will be familiar to those who have played Le mans 24 Hours.) Turn 13 (130R): Shortly after crossing the bridge, the course turns gently to the left. Light braking or - even better - a quick lift off the accelerator - is almost certainly required at 130R to keep from sliding off-course, although experts can speed through here at full throttle with an excellent racing line and no encumbering traffic. Turns 14-16 (Chicane): This is the trickiest part of the course (even moreso than Hairpin), and quite likely the one area which will determine whether or not you can execute a good lap time. The chicane begins with a moderate turn to the right, then a tight left-hand corner, then ends with a wider turn to the right and empties out onto the Pit Straight; all of this is on a downhill slope, adding to the inherent difficulty of Chicane. Fortunately, the inside of the chicane is filled with only sand, not barriers, but shortcutting the chicane will likely result in a loss of control (due to the rumble strips and the kitty litter), or at least cause you to slow tremendously. Be careful coming out of Turn 15 so that you don't go too wide and bump the right side of the vehicle on the Pit Lane barrier. Pit Entry: Using the old entrance to Pit lane, the Pit Lane begins to the right just before Chicane. The current real- world course configuration has cars entering Pit Lane from the tiny stretch between Turns 15 and 16. ============================================== GRAND PRIX OF AUSTRALIA (ADELAIDE) The Adelaide venue is a temporary street circuit which was one of the true gems of F1 racing. Unfortunately, the Grand Prix of Australia is now held instead at Albert Park in Melbourne (which is itself an excellent race venue), but, while Albert Park is definitely a beautiful place to hold a race, it does not have nearly the mystique and the charm that is found on the challenging streets of Adelaide. (Fortunately, Australia's excellent V8 SuperCar series still uses the Adelaide circuit.) Turns 1 and 2: At the end of the Pit Straight, this very tricky section begins with a TIGHT left-right chicane which requires moderate or heavy braking; cars will definitely pile up here if there is an incident on the opening lap of the race, as there is virtually nowhere to go should an accident block the raceway due to the closeness of the barriers (although they are fortunately NOT nearly as close as at Monaco). After a VERY brief straightaway, there is a dogleg to the left. Turn 3: Shortly after passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, drivers need to begin braking for the blind right- hand Turn 3. Because the white-painted barriers are so close to the circuit in this opening segment of the Adelaide street circuit, it can be VERY difficult to spot exactly where the circuit bends until one can see the very short escape road ahead... and by this time, it is really too late to safely make it through the right-hand right-angle corner. Turn 4: About one city block beyond Turn 3, this is a perpendicular left-hand corner requiring moderate braking. Turn 5: About one city block beyond Turn 4, this is a perpendicular right-hand corner requiring moderate braking. Turns 6 and 7: About one city block beyond Turn 5, this is a fast left-right chicane which can actually be taken at full throttle with the proper tight racing line. If taken at full throttle, beware the barrier on exiting the chicane. Begin braking at corner exit for Turn 8. Turn 8: This is a rough right-hand corner which requires moderate braking beginning with the exit of Turn 7. Turn 9: This is a rough right-hand corner which requires light braking and a wide racing line... but beware the grandstands on the left on corner exit. Straightaway: This is the single longest straightaway at Adelaide. Powerful acceleration out of Turn 8 is required, and only the BAREST of tapping on the brakes is needed for Turn 9 to enable excellent passing opportunities along this immense straightaway and the entry to Turn 10. Turn 10: This tight and nasty right-hand J-turn requires heavy braking, especially given the incredibly-fast speeds attained along the previous straightaway. This is an excellent to pass on braking entering this J-turn. Turn 11: Immediately following a left-hand dogleg, this is a J-turn to the left, requiring moderate braking. Turn 12: This final corner is tricky. Pit Entry is immediately on the right on corner entry, whereas the main circuit uses the outside racing line. The Pit Lane barrier is set back at corner exit, which means that passing can occur by essentially 'shortcutting' the corner... but then drivers risk ramming the Pit Lane barrier by 'shortcutting' the corner too much. ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== BONUS TRACK (BIZARRE GRAND PRIX, FRAMEOUT CITY) The TRUE bonus for winning the Drivers Championship in either Arcade Mode or Grand Prix Mode is a new racing venue :-) This is a fictitious circuit which on the circuit map resembles the outline of an F1 racecar. However, it is important to note that this is a VERY tricky circuit, due to both the many tight corners and the many steep inclines and descents. For those who do not wish to view the detailed driving instructions for this bonus circuit, a large expanse of blank lines precedes and follows the instructions. Pit Straight: The Start/Finish Line for this bonus circuit is located across the top of the plank holding the rear wing of this simulated F1 car. Note that this is barely a 'straightaway' at all; cars begin the race in a curving formation through the final corners. Turns 1 and 2: The first two corners are essentially a left- right chicane. These are semi-easy corners at the start of a race, due to the slow speeds coming out of a standing start, but once on a hot lap, these are tricky corners. There are concrete extensions here, with the one to the outside of Turn 1 rather wide; the concrete extensions will certainly be seeing A LOT of use until drivers become intimately familiar with this portion of the circuit. Turns 3-5 (The Rear Wheel): Here, the raceway turns more gently to the left, to the right, and then back to the left. The trick to this section, however, is knowing the elevation changes. Turn 5 is particularly difficult in this regard, as the raceway passes through a brief tunnel beginning just before Turn 5, so there are dark shadows cast over the raceway to effectively obscure the tremendous dip in the circuit. The dip bottoms out just at the exit of Turn 5; it is best to err by keeping far to the left through Turn 5, as the car will inherently want to slide out to the right, while those who enter Turn 5 too far to the right will ram the right-side barrier every time. Straightaway: Following Turn 5 is a lengthy straightaway. There are two tunnels along this section of the circuit. Turns 6-8 (The Front Wheel): Those with a FLAWLESS racing line can speed through here at top acceleration. This is a well-rounded left-right-left 'chicane' forming the front wheel of an F1 car. It is very easy to misjudge corner placement due to the slight elevation changes here; also, Turn 7 is semi-blind. The raceway slopes downhill beginning at the entry to Turn 6, bottoming out at the exit of Turn 8. Straightaway: The circuit makes an easy uphill climb here. Turn 9 (The Nose): This is a TIGHT right-hand J-turn which is made even more difficult by the steep uphill slope beginning at corner entry and continuing throughout the turn itself. Moderate or hard braking will be required here. It is also very easy to slide off the racing line and into the sand on the outside of the corner by carrying too much speed into Turn 9. Straightaway: Coming out of Turn 9, the circuit continues its steep uphill climb. Shortly, however, the angle of the incline is reduced a little. There are three overhead advertisements for the game along this straightaway, with Turn 10 shortly following the last of these overheads advertisements. Turns 10-11: This is a tight, somewhat-slow left-right requiring moderate braking on entry and slow accelerator depression throughout. Straightaway: Coming out of Turn 11, the circuit continues its steep uphill climb, then crests. Just beyond the crest of the circuit is a small rise, leading toward the end of the circuit. There is a slight fade to the left just before Turn 12. Turns 12-15: The tall yellow crane (used for removing those cars which have retired alongside the raceway) marks the outside of Turn 12, a left-hand corner on a steep downhill incline. At the exit of Turn 12, the circuit flattens once again as Turn 13 heads to the right. After virtually NO straightaway, Turn 14 is another right-hand right-angle corner, followed instantly by the identical Turn 15. The Start/Finish Line is at the exit of Turn 15. Again, there are virtually NO straightaways between ANY of the corners in this section of the circuit. Moderate braking will be needed for Turn 12 and carried through to Turn 13; VERY gentle throttle management will be needed until the exit of Turn 2. Pit Entry and Pit Exit: Pit Entry is virtually invisible, primarily because it is a raised silver-colored metal platform behind a billboard. At the entry of Turn 14, look for the yellow painted arrows on the outside of the rumble strip; these lead to the silver platform and the 'Pit Lane' itself (which is only two car-lengths long); it is important to slow TREMENDOUSLY before attempting to go to Pit Entry, as this is an EXTREMELY narrow Pit Entry (and Pit Lane, and Pit Exit). Pit Exit rejoins the main circuit from the left on the exit of Turn 15 (immediately before the Start/Finish Line). ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== DIAGRAMS This section contains the diagrams referred to earlier in the guide. Ascari Chicane (at Monza): * * * * * *** * ***************** Bus Stop Chicane (Variant I - Wide Chicane): ******************* ******************* * * ********* Bus Stop Chicane (Variant II - Narrow Chicane): ******************* ******************* *********** Decreasing-radius Corner: ->******************* * * * * * * <-************************* Hairpin Corner: ->***************** * <-***************** Increasing-radius Corner: ->********************** * * * * * <-******************* J-turn ******************* * * * * Quick-flicks (Variant I - Wide Chicane): ************* * ************* Quick-flicks (Variant II - Narrow Chicane): ************* ************** Sample Circuit Using Some of the Above Corner Types Combined: ******|****** ***** * |-> * * * * ** *** * * * ** * * * * * * * * * * * **** * ** * * * * * ******** ******* * ******* Standard Corner: ******************* * * * * * * * * U-turn: ->***************** * * * <-***************** ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== CONTACT INFORMATION For questions, rants, raves, comments of appreciation, etc., or to be added to my e-mail list for updates to this driving guide, please contact me at: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM; also, if you have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has been helpful to you, I would certainly appreciate a small donation via PayPal (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above e-mail address. To find the latest version of this and all my other PSX/PS2/DC/Mac game guides, visit FeatherGuides at http://feathersites.angelcities.com/ ============================================== ============================================== ============================================== ======================================================================= Wolf Feather Jamie Stafford ======================================================================= Just as there are many parts needed to make a human a human, there's a remarkable number of things needed to make an individual what they are. - Major Kusanagi, _Ghost in the Shell_ ======================================================================= What isn't remembered never happened. - _Serial Experiments Lain_ =======================================================================